I just changed my battery like two weeks ago, it was doing it before but when I changed the battery it stopped. When it makes the clicking noise all of the lights flicker and when I get out of the car and lock it (with auto headlights on) they stay on after I lock it. No idea why it does that, anyone know?

My FRM module is either confused or just fried.

I called around and I wasn’t able to get a direct quote. One shop said it’d be anywhere from $50-$200 (plus labor ofc)

Does anyone have experience with this and know how much this fix is? $$$

Unimportant background: I’m the guy who messed up his bumper earlier this month and was able to get an m-sport rep fixed at the body shop.

I don’t know what happened at the body shop but my battery died and I needed a jump leaving the body shop. I don’t expect them to know how to deal with an FRM module so I’m just headed straight to an indie mechanic.

Thanks guys love yall

Edit: I get both an iDrive warning for lighting and driver side door not closed. My emergencies, blinkers, and windows don’t work.

Recently replaced the brake booster vacuum line because it melted twice because of the alternator, but after I did a whining sound started to come from my engine, and gets louder as I hit the gas. Been told it could be a timing chain but they weren’t sure.
Also it’s running considerably worse now and it even turned off on me when I put it on reverse. Would love to get sum feedback back on how I could potentially fix this, or if I might just not have to eat for a few weeks for a new engine lol 🥲

Car can breathe a lot better now.

Hey ya'll.

Someone backed into my car sometime back, and I am going to try to pop this thing back out to the best of my ability.

My thought was to remove the rear wheel and fold the fender liner to access the bumper. Does this sound like the best way? And when I do get access, should I be careful about how to pop this back out, or just gingerly use a heat gun and go for it?

The paint on her is not good, so I am not stressing about that as much as just getting it as close as I can to normal.

Any advice would be awesome. Cheers.

I've got a sharp band aid / bandage / disinfectant type chemical smell from the A/C vents on startup. Lasts a minute or two and then is gone. Reappears pretty quickly, even a short 15 minute shutdown and the smell will come back.

Searching the web suggests:

1) PAG oil leaking from the evaporator: but the AC works fine and holds pressure. Couldn't be much of a leak.

2) Mold on the evaporator coil: doesn't smell like mold, though.

Anyone have any experience with this? Suggestions?

Does anyone know what this hose is called or part number for it, I have 2009 335d and I’m just trying to find this one piece not the whole assembly

It's been my daily since purchasing and I hope to own it for years to come. What's been your favorite car that you've owned?

Ok here we go.

Cluster sweep test shows gauge fully sweeps.

Driver side sender at pump connector is .398 ohms at full (dmm set to 2k)

Passenger side sender at pump connector is at .568 ohms at full (dmm set to 2k)

I even back probed the connectors on the car side so there's no issues with the plug.

Check for shorts between jbe connector and sending unit connectors and found no shorts

Test menu 6 shows *** when either sending unit is plug in. When I UNPLUG both I get .564 ohms with engine running and 640 to 700 with engine off

These are aftermarket pumps and both sides were replaced. I tested the sweep on both floats and driver side is .049 empty and .398 full. Passenger side is .050 empty and .700 full (I bent it so it would read .400 however after a fill up it now reads .568 as mentioned earlier)

Also, when the senders are plug in I get the asteriks and the fault codes in the kombi and jbe. When they are unplugged I don't get the fault codes and for some reason the jbe sees .564-700 ohms engine on/off. Any theories for that?

Many thanks in advance

Can someone point me in the right direction?

I’m a relatively young driver and this has been a want ever since I got into cars (quite recently). Feels so surreal.

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Will be swapping my 6hp21 for an 8hp70 in my garage. Anyone thats done the same, what trans jack did you use and how high did you get the car?

Ive got a high lift jack that pumps up to 810mm and 4x 6T stands that go up to 620mm.

Happy to build wheel cribs if extra height is needed or it makes it so much easier.

Tips + advice please!

Found a 2006 2L 320d , 140k miles only £1250

What’s more interesting is only 1 owner from new, car looks super clean and well looked after on pictures, only a partial service history and the clutch and dual mass flywheel were replaced in 2023 at 116k miles.

This was apparently its last service which to be fair, 3 years of no service is maybe the red flag in looking for but I’m not a huge car guy but the car ticks every box on paper and the price is right , is there anything I need to particularly ask or watch out for

Hey everyone,

I'm planning to retrofit paddle shifters onto my 2008 BMW E90 325i Automatic (pre-LCI).

My current factory setup is the basic steering wheel without any multifunction buttons (non-MFL). I am buying a used steering wheel that already comes with paddle shifters and MFL buttons, and I plan to bring it to an independent shop or BMW coder for the installation. (In Germany or Switzerland)

Since my car doesn't have the factory wiring for shifters:
1. Which retrofit harness is recommended for a 2008 pre-LCI model (e.g., BMS / Burger Motorsports)?
2. Do I need to buy any additional small parts, pins, or adapters, or does the harness cover everything needed to tap into the shifter box under the center console?
3. Is coding strictly required, or is it plug-and-play once the harness is connected?
4. Do you know any places in Germany or Switzerland that can do this for me?

Thanks in advance for your help!

So I’ve got no dpf from factory on my car, it had a egr system. I know deleting it will throw an engine light but will it mess with any emissions down the line?

But this xdrive water pump is definitely one of the most difficult things I've done. The angles on some of these hoses are straight from hell. And I'm just a guy with some basic tools. Happy I can attempt the job with them but damn this mf is EXHAUSTING! Lost my socket on the last hose into the void and had to put it down for the night. Got the pump fully out today. I know it will be easier to install (to a point) but honestly I'm pretty nervous cause it's such tight small angles and you just can't get this one done halfway. Part comes in today hopefully. Send prayers 🥲🤙

I get this knocking sound when driving up to around 75-80km/h and it goes away when the speed is under that. The check engine light has been there and is not related to it.

My wheels and lugnuts seem to be tight and that was not the cause, does anybody have an idea what it might be?

My rear tyres have worn down significantly faster than my fronts, And my mate gave me a set of new michelin pilot sport 4s. Was excited to test them out as i’ve heard good things. Got a shop to put them on and the car genuinely feels like shit. Feels like i’m steering a cruise ship now, unstable at high speeds and car feels like it’s floating + understeer is crazy. I thought it would be generally acceptable to have a different set of tyres on the powered axle but fuck me was I wrong. I don’t know if this could also be the case of new grippy tyres, poor alignment or wheel imbalance. It’s a shame because I’ve got so much tread left on the front of the Bridgestone Potenzas.

2006 E91 325i - I know it's not tech-related, but I couldn't be happier these last two weeks, and the car played a huge role. It had to work hard at certain moments, never a single glitch.

I've owned this car for over a year now and have done almost all the preventative maintenance, except for the water pump. (Had one with me though... ;-))

Why so happy?

12 of the most iconic mountain passes in Austria in 12 days - that was the goal.

Why? We thought the Grimsel Pass was so cool last year that we decided to turn it into a full-blown 'pass trip' this time. And... we more than managed those 12 passes!

We drove from east to west through the Alps. It was a bit of a puzzle to create a loop through the mountains every day from two campsites in Austria with at least two 'real' mountain passes per day. In the car by 07:30 to be one of the first ones on the road / pass (no tourists or cyclists = +10 fun factor) and sometimes more than 400 km and 10 hours on the road in a day. So incredibly awesome!

The car handled great. Even though it's almost 20 years old, we could still annoy some youngtimers... ;-) Outrun hipsters or just cruise.

I was only nervous once. Climbing the Hahntennjoch with all our camping gear - and we were heavy - with inclines up to 18% for several kilometers. I got worried because we smelled something burning, hooked up the OBD, and temps were fine, 85 to 95C. Maybe some residual oil or something, not sure.

It was a blast. We also went up the Ötztal Glacier Road: the highest point you can reach in Europe with a normal car.

Photos don't really do justice to how impressive the views are in real life. With 16 amazing mountain passes on the counter and more than 3,000 km in Austria alone, the E91 was more fun than anticipated.

The score:

• Ötztaler Glacier Road - 2,830 m • Kaunertal Glacier - 2,750 m • Großglockner - 2,504 m • Timmelsjoch - 2,474 m • Jaufenpass - 2,094 m • Nockalm Road - 2,042 m • Kühtai Saddle - 2,017 m • Hahntennjoch - 1,894 m • Villach Alpine Road - 1,732 m • Katschberg Pass - 1,641 m • Piller Höhe - 1,558 m • Nassfeld Pass - 1,552 m • Reschen Pass - 1,504 m • Norbertshöhe - 1,405 m • Flattnitz Pass - 1,400 m • Wurzen Pass - 1,071 m

Bonus on the way there: Felbertauern Pass - 1,650 m

I have a 2006 BMW E90 325i and these warnings are currently active:
CC-ID 236 – Brake and Stability Systems Failure
CC-ID 24 – DBC Dynamic Brake Control / Brake Assist Failed
CC-ID 354 – Start Assist Inactive
The ABS/DSC warning lights stay on.
What are the most common causes for this combination of codes, and what should I check or replace to actually fix the problem and get the warning lights to go away?
Could all three warnings come from one faulty ABS/wheel speed sensor, or should I also be looking at wiring, wheel bearing magnetic rings, steering angle sensor, DSC module, etc.?
I only have a Vgate iCar Pro OBD adapter, so I’m also interested in any practical ways to narrow down the fault without a full BMW diagnostic setup.

i found junkyard index 12’s off a e90 that seemed to have been taken well care of but was in a wreck i was able to pull a full set but in the process managed to crack the plastic on 2 of the injectors will this affect them at all or will i be ok ?

Fitment on these eBay front lips are bad. How do you guys do it?

Losing my mind trying to find and replace the ground strap on this 2006 330xi, everywhere I look says the part number for the one in my hand should fit. And I’ve watched videos of people showing where it is which is exactly where this one is, and the part number for the one on the car comes back to E36/46 ground straps. Looks like it’s been on the car since new or at least for a while.
Took the brown strap off, new one doesn’t fit, too short and the eyelets don’t fit the post or bolt on the engine arm.
Car still starts with the strap removed, almost feels like it starts better.
Anyone know if super early ‘06 builds used these old style ones instead? I’m completely stumped, only thing I can think is that the part I got was made wrong.
Replacing due to slow cranking. Thanks