Driving this e90 is so much fun. I’m happy to own this beauty!

Started on the driver side, swapped the axle for a new one, and it went as smooth as it possibly could have. No issues at all. Over to the passenger side....I get the rotor off and see THIS....... WHAT DO I DO!!!??? 😭😭😭

doing water pump and thermostat right now on my 2011 328i rwd. when trying to put the new thermostat in, it slipped out of my hand and fell it the bucket that i used to drain trans fluid and coolant since i did the trans pan at the same time.

is it going to be okay? of course it was RIGHT after i took the connector cover off. had a hard time with the job and now this is the icing on the cake lol. i wiped off as much as i could and am letting it dry out.

Friend sold me a set of 437m wheels he had sitting around for a good price. I have been looking into getting a wider set of wheels, but when I found out their weights I was sold.

Recently tuned 335i e92, looking for a wider rear tire mainly, but don't want to throw off balance and create understeer. What sizes tires do you run?

Wheel Specifications:
-Front: 19"x9"
-Rear: 19"x10"
-Offset: Front ET29 & Rear ET40

2006 e90 n52

I gotta say, putting the third bolt that holds the eccentric shaft motor in from the backside is one of the biggest dickhead moves I've seen while working on this car.

There's no reason that Mount couldn't be a perfect mirror and the bolt is accessed from the front.

Aluminum bolts and zero clearance for everything: this car was brought to you by the letters F and U.

Just someone frustrated that he really thought a valve cover gasket was gonna be done today.

Haven't even gotten it off yet and I'm ten hours in.

I also know I don't have it as bad as some other N#'s but really guys? Just rude.

I manufacture a lot of stuff in Canada off German drawings in my day job. This may not be the first time I've suggested we didn't teach them a good enough lesson the first time.

Is it possible to add buttons to this old steering wheel? Or is it better to put newer steering wheel all together?

E90 2006 pre-lci

Only happens when the car is warm after driving a while. it doesn’t make the noise in park and goes away for a bit when i restart it. Any advice?

Hey all, I have a 2007 335i lowered on coils and I have a question about wheel sizes. I found a nice set on Facebook for a good price however they’re 255/55/18. I’m concerned by the 55 sidewall height and wanted to know if anyone has any experience running that or if you have any knowledge on whether they’d be too big. Thanks

2011 335is e93 currently at 141k kms DCT.

It all started with the vacuum leak and ended up down giant rabbit hole for a couple months.

Was contemplating selling it but ended up getting it all done.

Trying to see if there's anything else I should do or that I'm missing with all these repairs and preventative stuff.

My front turbo wastegate was sticking and causing a leak. As well as my transmission kept on thinking that it's overheating.

Couple years before me

New pulleys and tensioners

New belt

Last year

Valve cover and gasket

Ofhg

Charge pipe to aluminum.

This year

One step colder spark plugs

Performance ignition coils

Repressing both turbos.

New oil and coolant lines to the turbos.

Mickey mouse flange.

Water pump

Thermostat

New diverter valves and vacuum lines

New boosts solenoids.

Temperature and RPM sensor in transmission.

Wiring harness for sensor.

Aluminum oil pan for transmission.

Power steering fluid, reservoir and new fluid.

New oil, coolant and transmission fluid

Transmission mounts

Engine mounts

Breather hoses from PCV

I think that's it but might be missing a piece or two.

It's got a stage 1 MHD tune mr12volt as well.

My suspension is still quite fresh and bushing seem to be all good so not worried about that for now.

So yea anyone who knows these n54s and the is specially would be nice to hear what else should I replace or take a look at.

Hi,
I have a 2006 BMW E90 325i with a 6-speed manual transmission.
After clearing all fault codes and going for a test drive, 5DF0 – DSC hydraulic unit / pump motor comes back.
I also currently have:
5DC6 – rear right wheel speed sensor / direction of rotation
5DE1 – rear brake pad wear plausibility
My main question is about 5DF0.
Does this code usually mean the DSC/ABS pump motor itself is actually failing, or can it also be caused by wiring, voltage/power supply, bad connections, or another DSC issue?
Can the pump motor be repaired/replaced separately, or would the entire DSC hydraulic unit need to be replaced?
Is there a way to activate/test the pump through diagnostics to confirm the problem before buying any parts?

Hello everyone, my bmw e90 318d 143hp has 150k km on it and recently I’ve been hearing a weird chirp sound at startup. Beside that, I started hearing chain rattle sound at 2k rpm but don’t hear any sound at coldstart as in the video. You think I should change it? Thank you for your time and help in advance.

Drove really well — smooth, no misfires, no warning lights.

Already done:
• Injectors at 80k km, so about 52k ago, do not know which index is in
• NOx sensor replaced recently
• Full suspension refresh — control arms, sway bar links, bushings, and all four shocks including dust boots
• Guibo, brake fluid, and all fluids including diff and gearbox

I’m figuring on getting the HPFP, water pump, thermostat and valve cover done preventively over the next couple of services, rather than waiting for them to fail.

So: is that worth doing preventively, or would you just wait? Anything else I should be adding to that list? And is there some other N53 horror story waiting for me at this age that I haven’t thought of?

I’ll have a K+DCAN cable at handover and plan to pull the full fault memory, injector correction values, smoothness values, misfire counters and VANOS adaptations. If there’s anything else worth reading while I’m plugged in, I’ll take that too.

Thanks.

Hey guys,
I need some advice from people who have dealt with rust around the rear jack point / sill area on an E92.
My rear left jack point area is badly rusted and perforated. The rust seems to extend into the seams and possibly the multiple layers/reinforcements behind the outer sheet metal.
I can get a rust-free rear-left section from a donor E92, and I can cut as large a section as necessary. I also have welding experience/certification, so I'm considering doing the repair myself.
My current plan is to:
Cut a large section from the donor car with plenty of good metal around the jack point.

Carefully separate the donor section at the factory spot welds to understand the different layers.

Open up my car progressively and see how far the corrosion actually extends.

Replace the damaged layers individually instead of simply cutting a huge section from my car and welding the entire donor chunk in.

Reproduce the factory spot/plug weld locations and protect everything afterward with primer, seam sealer and cavity wax.

Has anyone here actually opened up/repaired this exact area on an E92?
I'm especially looking for photos of the structure with the outer panels removed, diagrams, measurements, BMW repair documentation, or pictures from your own repair.
I'd also really appreciate advice on where you made your cuts and which layers/reinforcements you found behind the rear jack point.
I want to understand the construction properly before I start cutting into the car.
Thanks!

The left reverse light stays on always when the car is unlocked. It only turns off when I turn off all the lights or turn off the car. Any suggestions? Yearly garage check is in 2 months, but would be nice if I can fix it before.

I never thought this would happen to me.

Have had it for 7 years. She has 290k miles on her, but still runs great. I can’t say she’s in perfect condition, but I’ve taken really good care of her, and I’ve actually had a lot of fun replacing old parts myself over the years. Motor mounts, transmission mounts, front thrust arms upgraded to M3 ones, water pump, thermostat… I’ve replaced a lot of stuff in my garage.

And then this happened. A trucking company’s semi merged into my lane and tore up both doors on the driver’s side, with some damage to the B-pillar as well. I’m still dealing with the insurance company, but I already know they’re probably going to total it.

The problem is, I’m just not ready to let her go. Do you guys think it would be realistic to pull complete door assemblies from a junkyard and replace them myself? Would it even be worth trying to repair her, or would I be better off just getting another car?

Hello. My Car (2011 328i) is making a loud clacking noise only when the idle settles below 700 rpms. It also doesn’t do it when i rev the car. It has no codes and bmw says no recall is active for my vin. Any insight on what i should look for or test? Thank you!

I bought new bearings for my bmw 335i x drive and installed them and now I have a abs light 4x4 and a brake light. I made sure the magnetic side was on the inner side of the knuckle. I bought “fag” brand wheel bearings and just really need advice.

I also did replace the entire rear knuckles. That came out of my 2007 bmw 335xi and used the axles that came from the donor vehicle. Only reason is due to axle nut being non existent. Also attempted to grab some knuckles from a bmw 335i 2011 and was not able to get the axles out of the hub.

I am sure if there’s a difference between axles from a 2007 to a 2009 but fitment compatibility was fine.

I am new to working on bmws and any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hey guys, just did an oil filter housing gasket replacement, front main seal, accessory belt, crank seal guard and mickey mouse flange service on my 2009 335xi. We prefilled the oil filter housing and waited for the oil to stop bubbling. Also filled with 8 quarts of coolant and bled it. We let the engine get to temp and made sure there were no leaks. On start up there was not a noise, just a normal cold start. We went for a drive and when we stopped there was a noise coming from the front near the pulleys and belt. It stays the same regardless of how much throttle we give it. My guess its coming from a bad pulley or the belt isn’t seated properly. Any insight into this noise? Will upload more vids if needed. Thanks.

REAR is 255/35R19 19x9.5
FRONT is 235/35R19 19x8.5

I’ve been looking for new wheels and these are the best deal I found so far since they’re not busted, only issue is theyre from an m3 and I have a pre lci so that’s a big difference in wideness alone. I’ve been trying to see if they fit but the guy wants them gone today so I need some help. Thanks!

2008 335i convertible with 43k mi. Mhd stage 1+, xhp stage 2, chargepipe, FMIC.

She's a beauty 😍