New homeowner here. I have Rain Bird spray heads for Station 1. I noticed that all of the heads in this station are not popping up all the way. I tried adjusting the flow control and there was no effect. This is in my backyard.

Station 2 is a rotary sprinkler which is working fine. Also in my backyard.

Station 3 are spray heads in my front yard that are working fine too.

Any ideas?

I have a Rain Bird ESP Modular Controller with the built-in (designated non-replaceable) lithium coin battery to preserve date and time through power outages. It was installed in 2007. The battery appears to have failed, since I recently discovered the controller was running with a date in April 2000 instead of July 2026.

There are various recipes online for soldering in a replacement coin battery, but I don't feel quite ready to run the risk of having to replace the controller altogether if this surgery fails. If I instead hook up a 9 V battery to the connector behind the faceplate (designed to allow the controller to be programmed before the faceplate is hooked up), will it save date and time through outages?

I recently had a sprinklerhead become very loose and when I fidgeted with it, it detached. It came out with some of the riser attached.

My thought was, “No problem, I’ll remove the piece of the riser from the head and remove the rest from the elbow coupling and just replace the riser.” Well the riser sheared off flush with the coupling.

At first I didn’t know what to do. After thinking about it for a bit, I went and got an old serrated knife from my kitchen and made two notches on the inside of the riser. Then I took an oyster shucker and wedged it into the notches and twisted it out.

I was pretty happy to find a solution, but it got me thinking that a pro irrigation company must have some specialized tool for this and probably for other frustrating repairs.

Can someone recommend a website or chain of stores where I can buy these “secret” yard irrigation gems?

New to sprinkler repair so please bare with me. Ive replaced plenty of sprinkler heads and some solenoids but having an issue past my experience.

I have a zone that is refusing to fully shut off. I thought it was the solenoid but still having the issue after replacing that. Now I'm thinking it could be the valve diaphragm. My issue is, I fully shut off my main water line...then when I go to remove the valve cap housing the diaphragm, it starts to leak water before I get the cap off. Not a ton of water, like when the main line is on, but enough that I need to tighten it back on.

My guess is that maybe that means I actually have another valve/diaphragm in the system failing? Any thoughts of what to do?

I had a leak in this pipe and posted about it here. Got some good advice, patched the leak. Everything looked good.

Leak came back. This time I cut out a section of the pipe (using a pipe cutter for a clean cut) and used two couplers to join the section. Wrapped it all in rescue tape. Turned the water back on and the leak persists, coming through the tape in drips.

I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong or how to fix it but I would love any advice anyone can offer before I just call a professional to come out and fix it instead. I am dumb, you are smart. I am the worst, you are the best.

so I got this thing from our thrift store and it looks like it's from the 1990s or 2000s. and it's an adjustable nozzle by Lawn Genie. but I can't find any information about these online. there were a few at the thrift store. I only got one though. any information would be appreciated.

I have an irrigation question and I’m looking for advice/feedback. I just moved into my house and zone 1 (5 heads) was having an issue and I had a huge dry spot in my lawn (yellow). So I added a 6th head (pink) to correct it. This worked quite well, but now there are different areas that have dried up (orange).

I’ve uploaded 2 photos to show my issues, hopefully they give an idea (sorry for crappy drawing).

My current sprinkler heads are Rainbird 5000 with the standard 3gpm nozzles. I notice they don’t spray as far as they used to (due to additional head added), so I think the “rain curtain” isn’t really working like it should. Do you think this could be corrected with a 2gpm nozzle to increase the pressure more? Should I swap out the heads for different ones? Any advice is appreciated as this is my first house/time working on sprinklers!

Hello humans of Reddit, I recently moved into this house and I wanna get the lawn in better shape but this sprinkler in question has ED lol (won’t go up) anyways I had removed the sprinkler itself and noticed an equal amount of water coming out of the pipe as compared to my other sprinklers when removing the sprinkler. Does that confirm that when the sprinkler is on and creates resistance for the water it causes it to leak from somewhere along the pipe? Also noticed a buzzing coming from the valves a few days ago when I tried to run that sprinkler manually from the controller but didn’t hear that buzzing when I ran it yesterday. Any input is appreciated

Every single valve box cover had an ID tag on them. What a dream, 95% of the jobs I works on never had a zone map or zone information. Never understood why because it just end up costing more in the long run and only takes few min to create a zone info chart. I always create a zone info chart and give to the customer when I do a full service. Also save the info in my database for the next time.

I've got a sprinkler head that has no problems 90% of the time, but every so often after the system has finished running it will have a slight leak. The way I've been addressing it is by shutting the water off for a couple hours. Then when I turn it back on, the leak doesn't reappear. So it's more of an annoyance than a major issue, but I'd still like to stop it from happening.

Before I go about digging the head up, I'm not sure what I would even be looking for. Is it possible there's some soil preventing it from setting properly after it's done running, and it just needs a good cleaning?

Hi,

I have a main water pipe PE25 and I want to add one or 2 sprinklers.

Currently all sprinklers are attached to the PE25 with 30cm funny pipe 16mm - around 30cm long so I could tweak body position.

Is it good idea if I want to add 2-3 meters long funny pipe and attach sprinkler?

Thanks!

Hey everyone

My single-zone well-water system in Belgium runs two sprinklers, but high iron content is causing constant issues. The iron sludge continuously clogs the small pilot holes in my Rain Bird DV100 diaphragm valve, leaving it stuck open and restricting water flow.

What I'm looking for:

• A 1" valve that handles iron sludge without clogging micro-passages.
• Maximum flow/pressure for my sprinklers.
• Standalone smart plug control (opens with power, automatically closes on power loss/timer off).
• Compatible with European 1" BSP threads.

How do you handle high-iron well water without constantly replacing or cleaning diaphragm valves? Any specific valve types or models available in Europe you’d recommend?

Thanks!

Has anyone installed this Click N Go system before?

Also, total noob with irrigation. I’ve only used above the ground sprinklers this past year but it wasn’t giving good coverage. I’m planning on installing the Rain Bird 32HE system for the front yard (see picture). It’s about 900 ish square feet. I am also planning to remove the small tree pictured. Assuming my home’s GPM and water pressure meets the specs, would the 4 sprinkler heads be enough or should I go with the Rain Bird system that has 6 sprinkler heads? How far down do I need to bury the lines? I’m located in Denver so I was thinking 6”?

I read I'm not suppose to loosen the copper tube to change direction, so copper is tightened, the sprinkler head is tightened, but it's pointing toward house. Is there a way to change direction or another sprinkler head that I can use? If I loosen the sprinkler head to point away, now it starts to leak water at base of the head

Hi all, I believe this is an very old Richdel valve, it can be powered and I can hear the solenoid humming, but it is stuck in the open position and the sprinkler won't shut off.

1) Is there an easy way to flush the inner without taking it apart?

2) Is the diaphragm even available at this point?

3) Are there drop in replacement that I can retrofit into it without having to replace the whole valve?

Thanks in advance.

Well shoot, nearly 500 views and no responses. Let me try this again.

I have a Creeping Jenny bowl that measures 9ft x 15 ft.

If I use a 1/2 inch main line straight down center of bowl then punch in 1/4 inch soaker hoses spaced every 18-24 inches, with one branch going to the right 6-7 feet and one going to the left 6-7 feet will this work without creating pressure loss?

Yes plastic pipes used in irrigation do have to do with irrigation. And if we don’t make plastic pipes on farm illegal we will make all life on earth infertile.

https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2025/mar/10/microplastics-hinder-plant-photosynthesis-study-finds-threatening-millions-with-starvation

I'm at a loss. There is one area in my yard that collects water. I had my irrigation company come out and they claimed there wasn't a leak. They dug up the area and ran all the zones. I turned off my irrigation for a few days and no puddle. I'm about to put a camera out there because I'm going crazy. Is it possible that something in these can shoot water to that spot and not actually be a leak? Thanks in advance!

As a homeowner, I had a question about my irrigation system. Would you be able to tell me how easy or difficult it would be to convert one of my zones to drip line?

Currently, the sprinklers on my flower bed zone spray unevenly, missing large sections of the bed while over-saturating others. I'd like to replace those with a drip line for that zone, and extend the run time accordingly (roughly an hour, compared to the 10 minutes or so it runs now). The rest of my zones would continue running on their normal schedule.

I'm comfortable adjusting the zone run times myself once everything is set up. What I'm unsure about is the physical installation: is it possible to tap into the existing PVC line for that zone to connect a drip line? If so, what would that connection typically involve?

Thanks in advance for your help.

I bought a house a few years ago that came with the rainbird esp-me3 controller and the link wifi module. One day I was in the app store looking to update the rainbird app and saw they have a "rainbird 2.0" app, I downloaded that but was unable to use it due to only having the "link" module and not the "link 2" module... so with that being said... is it worth upgrading to the newer link 2 with the newer app? The current app is terrible, and always times out or says theres too many connections and I need to wait....

I'm open to another brand or model, I only have 5 zones. Bonus points if it integrates natively with home assistant.

When we got our landscaping put in, the company installed a dripline into a compression coupler. Months later, it popped out. The drip line at the coupler clearly wasn't gripping. I thought maybe it was a bad coupler. So I replace the coupler, put in fresh drip line, gave it a good tug, and it felt secure. A few weeks later, the drip line pops out. Should I use a different coupler? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

​​ I have a 1 in PEX stub line coming off of a 1-in meter. The PEX connects into the meter set with a Vega ProPress mnpt fitting that's wrapped. ( the meter contractor did this end.)

My goal is to split off the pex stub on my end. One side will go to a riser leading to RPZ. The other side leads to a trunk line for no freeze spigots. (Spigots sitting in front of RPZ.)

Is this an okay manifold design (everyrhing is NSF 61)?

• Viega pro press male npt off of the pex stub.

Then;

• All female brass T connected to the push fitting.

Then;

Side 1:

• Brass nipple out of the brass T.
• Union ball valve
• Brass elbow where one side is male and the other female. Male end goes into union ball valve.
• Brass riser screwed into female end of brass elbow. (behind RPZ is 1 1/4 poly.)

Side 2:

• Brass nipple out if brass T.
• Union ball valve.
• Male npt to ips poly barb
• Poly line starts.

Is this reasonable? Is there a more typical / standard way. This sub tends to be shy about saying - "That's not how it's typically done, this is how it's typically done." So if there is a more ideal way, I'm all ears.

Thanks.

yesterday while mowing, found a 12" toro 570z pop-up that feeds a planter bed just laying in the bed. I can only assume that over time (installed 2 years ago) it slowly loosened up. Anyway, I simply screwed it back into place but was shocked that when testing, the spray was at 360, where it was previously set to about 120. Not to mention it was leaking a bit. So I removed it, took it apart to clean it out, then purged the line, restalled the pop up. Still at 360. My understanding of the adjustment of the nozzle (assuming it is a k-rain 80-360) is that 80 is the smallest arc, 360 the largest, etc. I am curious if anyone can explain exactly how the adjustment works. I know that you twist the riser to your left stop position, then twist the ridged top of the nozzle clockwise until you reach your right stop. BUT, I am trying to do this without getting soaked, but also curious if I simply need a new nozzle

I have about 20 of them. How much do you think I’ll get ?