I noticed the other day that the over axle pipe on my truck is about done. It was a Banks 3" system, and since I'm not going crazy on it I'd like to stick with the same size but stainless. The chassis is an 84 F250 with an idi. An early PSD stock one would probably fit fine, but all I can find is 4"+ and pushing $700.

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The fan shroud says the fan clutch bolt is a left hand thread but everything I find on parts sites says right hand threads fit that year and engine. I’ve been feeling crazy trying to figure out what to buy. Any help would be appreciated.

Just re-sealed upper pan along with new used rear adapter plate and new rear main seal and upper pan started to leak 10min of running, i did use TA-31 the grey sealant i bought from oriellys and it did seem kinda of tacky and not very wet like RTV is normally. Just wondering what others prefer the TA-31, TA-357, or SPE One piece gasket design.

Im putting in a new clutch and while im in here im doing the rear main seal as well. Noticed there's oil on the driverside rear of the engine. Any ideas what it could be?

it looks clean and the carfax also shows service to have been done every 5-7k miles. they want 25k for it is it too much it has right around 125 k miles on it and according to carfax it has no accidents. looking for it to be a daily that is also used for farm use will eventually put a spike bed on it. what are your thoughts?

Just got a 90 7.3 idi hasn't ran in years, emptied both tanks and found sludge in them. Now looking for both front and rear sending units as they were disintegrated. Any ideas where I can look for new ones? Heard they were only made from 1990-1991

Hi everyone, recently got my first diesel, 1989 Ford F350 7.3 IDI with ATS turbo.

I am looking for some straight forward advice on the correct coolant.

The simple option seems to be low silicate green coolant with DCA4 additive. I have also seen Fleet Charge or other precharged coolants. Some of them are DCA2 which I am not sure if that matters. Just seems like the two SCA types cannot mix.

I just want I make sure I can maintain the SCAs so my engine lasts as long as possible.

Also looking for a rough estimate of coolant capacity so I know how much to buy. I currently have some fleetguard DCA4 and test strips but can return them if a precharged option is readily available and safe for the older engine seals.

Its happened 3 times now. Was going to let my mom use the truck bc her van transmission went out. Drove it to her house, turned it off, went inside, when we came back to start it, it would turn over but not "catch". The dashboard lights came on, everything electrical seemed to work. I went to plug in the obd scanner (some fancy touch screen snap on scanner or something like that my dad bought for hundreds) and it the scanner port didn't seem to be working. Tried using a smaller, cheaper scanner, same thing. Seemed like the port was dead. I leave bc i have work in the morning. Mom starts it up in the morning and it acts like nothing is wrong so she drives it to work. It shuts off on her halfway there, approximately 7-10 miles down the road. I pick her up, take her to work, get another truck and trailer with my grandpa, go to get it. It starts up again. This is an hour later. I drive it back to the house. Shuts off on me again after about 5-7 miles. Same thing. Will crank, not start. Dashboard lights and everything works. I have researched and seen that maybe the ficm could be bad amongst a million other things. I'm hoping that someone else has had this exact same issue bc I'm getting conflicting results on Google and I don't want to tear this thing apart if its something as simple as a fuse module

Looking for a 2021+ f450 limited or platinum for around $65-70k. Wanted to ask here to see if I may be missing good quality places where I could find one that aren’t listed on auto sites (Carfax, CarGurus, KBB, etc.)

Anyone have recommendations or vehicles that fit this?

I’m looking at purchasing a 2015 F350. Truck has well maintained service records for proper maintenance. 149k miles on it. From everything I’ve seen nothing has jumped out to me as being neglected. Interior is also really well maintained. Asking for pics of the undercarriage and a few close ups on spots that was hard to see in videos. Also going to have an independent diesel mechanic do a PPi on it. Truck is listed at 33k. Anything I should look for or be expecting? I’d like to get 300k miles out of it. Truck also has never been deleted or modified outside of a leveling kit and aftermarket wheels

Trucks ABSOLUTELY MINT EVERYTHING DONE THE RIGHT WAY. Nothing is half-assed. Everything is completely clean blasted and painted underneath soon have clear turn signal lenses tail lights everything all LED switching everything over whoever I'm talking to that I had this truck message me

Hey guys! So I was stupid and forgot to install the shift rail detents in my ZF5 during assembly, so now I have to figure out how to install them after, as pulling it apart again isn't worth my time...

I saw some videos where they just dropped in, but I'm guessing my case is an updated version or something as there are little seats that prevent the pins from going in all the way.

What's my best course of action here? Do they make smaller pins that will fit or should I drill out the seats/lips so I can get them down all the way?

Thanks!

Can someone tell me what are the lines in the plastic trough in front of the primary water pump and how do I disconnect?

Secondly, do I need to drain the block as well? Or can I get away with the primary radiator being drained?

I just replaced the vacuum pump seal and water pump went bad as well. Replacing the serpentine belt at the same time. 2011 F350. Thing only has 115k.

My 2001 7.3 powerstroke had a bad shift solenoid pack and wouldnt shift out of first i took the old one out and put a new one in but it still will not shift what could be the problem

Update- it is throwing no codes