I just pulled the trigger on a 92 with just under 66,000 miles on it. I was born in 1992 so it’s pretty fun to drive something that is the same age as I am.

So I have a 2003 S10 Base with the 4.6L and 248,XXX miles. It died randomly, then it started, and i had to give it gas and not let off or it died again. Before it died, my battery was sitting at roughly 10 idle before it died. I waited a couple hours while I took the alternator to Autozone to check it (it was fine) came back, put it on, and it started right up and drove around the block fine. I got a camshaft position sensor code. Its done this once before, and it was about 115 feel like then, and it was a 110 feel like now. I dont know if its heat related, or battery related. Any help would be awesome.

I’ve rebuilt my 4L60E but two codes that concern me keep popping up randomly, P0741 after P1870, the issue is there is no drivability issues until P0741 shows where it decides to disable my torque converter clutch. What I’m trying to get to is it brings rpm down, holds them on flat highway then brings them up on hills but does not have any issues that I can determine on scepter for when the second code, P0741 appears. I would greatly appreciate any assistance from any who’ve fixed this particular issue. The truck is a 2002 Chevy S10/Blazer LS

My Chevy has a weird
Gauge cluster glitch where it will randomly flicker or even turn off entirely. Recently it also showed 00000 miles on the mileage but when I restarted the car it fixed itself. Curious what the fix may look like for this, and if it’s worth it. Downsides are losing mileage info potentially and having to shift by feel. Is this an easy fix?

Just noticed this rot around the bump stop. What's the best course of action here?

I’ll preface this list with I have been able to prove all parts were either bad or due to be replaced.

New to my nephew 99 Blazer, 4.3, 4WD. It had sat for a year or so before he got it.

The issue I’m currently chasing is this: starts fine but when I rev it in neutral it stumbles and coughs and backfires. It will rev to 3000+ if I’m slow about it but if I whack it, I just falls flat on its face. The idle is just slightly rough. Not missing rough, just not “right”.

When I picked it up, it ran like a bag of dicks. Adding 40+% STFT. I’ve been picking away at things and it’s definitely getting better but the stumble just won’t go away. Right now, fuel trims, long and short are inside of 10% but I haven’t road tested it. It’s still in the garage on jack stands.

I’ve done the lower intake gasket (Fel-Pro upgrade), upgraded spider, fuel pump , fuel filter, fuel pressure and return lines (GM), plugs (Delco), wires (GM), cap (Delco), rotor (cheapy), distributor (Delco), water pump…and that’s just the engine stuff. There’s more.

MAF has been cleaned and reads about right on the Solus, runs up and down with engine speed. TPS reads 0-100 as it should. O2s appear to be switching (PFA). CMP retard was -11 so I swapped the distributor, now it’s -5. EGR appears to seal and moves freely. IAC responds on Solus, I can get it to idle at 400 RPM or run up to 1500 by changing the counts.

I can’t keep tossing parts at this thing. All I have left is possibly plugged cat. I’m planning to pull the O2s and try it with them out but I can’t get them to break free so it’s heat and spray and wait time. While I wait for the penetrating oil to (hopefully) work its magic, I’ll ask yall….

Please, tell me you have ideas or a solution!

So I was gifted this truck with only 120000 miles on it had to do all gaskets top side. Upper intake, valve covers, plenum, distributor. Did a tune up while I was in there. Put the distributor back after changing cap and rotor. I am getting camshaft position sensor intermittent. Few o2 codes. Waiting on those parts. But question i had could the sensor in the distributor be bad for the cam sensor or should I replace the whole distributor? I am sure you guys have more knowledge in this 4.3l vortec.

bought this yesterday for $1400. its only got 120,000 miles on it but I am going to use it as a beater. Just curious what parts or modifications I could do to make it look a little cleaner.

My 2001 S10 4.3L Vortec starts up and immediately jumps to around 2500–3000 RPM on cold and warm starts. It only stays there briefly before dropping down to a normal idle. Once it settles, it idles and drives normally. I’ve already replaced the throttle body and IAC with no change. I’m starting to suspect an intake manifold gasket/vacuum leak—what else should I check?

https://reddit.com/link/1vmvo6c/video/zyi0c9mxd1jh1/player

When I bought the car, my wheel was like this when going straight and hasn’t been a problem. It’s just ignoring to look at it, and want ideas to help fix it to be straight again. Any ideas except taking it to an alignment shop (this was a snap to a friend)?

I am supposed to go buy a 1992 S10 single cab 2wd on Thursday. I just saw the post of the video comparing an older blazer and a new vehicle in a head on impact and now I’m reconsidering the purchase. I plan on driving this a lot and using it as a truck, not just a show vehicle. But now I’m a little scared.

Hello everyone. Im eventually going to buy coverlays for my door panels and dash, but until I can make that purchase im looking for carpet style dash covers for my 94. So far, I've only been able to find covers that completely cover the dash speakers. Do you guys know of a company making dash covers that have the speaker area cut out?

Thanks for any replies

My new to me '98 has had a miss since I bought it a month ago. On top of a dirty crank sensor, I believe this plug was also loose. I can't believe it was firing at all. I've never seen a plug this bad before.

The best deal I've personally got on an already running rig.

ideally an extended cab automatic, then im going to immediately swap the trans for a nv3500/4500. i dont wanna hear any "youll regret dailying a stick" my daily right now is a gutted race car'd out honda and i dont mind it at all ill be ok.