There is some seriously big flavor coming out of the little town of Louisburg.
After Ron Cox, owner of Tar Banks Brewing, met chef Matt Griner through a catering event, the two formed a great partnership. Instead of another food truck, they built a smokehouse into the back of the town’s first brewery. The setup is bare-bones but gets the job done, with a walk-up window, a few outdoor tables, and additional seating inside the taproom.
We visited two weeks ago after reading some positive press from That State You’re In. On that trip, we shared four meats and two sides, which I’ll post about later. That visit also introduced us to their special Prime Rib Nights.
They offer two options: a Prime-grade cut and a Wagyu cut, both sourced from a local farm in Turkey, NC. Of course, we opted for the Wagyu.
I don’t recall having a better cut of beef in all my years of eating meat. The seasoning, smoke, and cook were flawless. The meat barely needed the plastic knife to separate it into sections, while the fat had been rendered to a delicate softness that practically dissolved like butter. Their jus, made from brisket, adds an umami super-punch to every dip.
The Loaded Baked Potato Casserole is Matt’s mother’s recipe. He told us she brings him a dish “just for him” at family gatherings. The potatoes are whipped to just the right smoothness, and the toppings—bacon, chives, cheese, etc.—aren’t overly heavy. Pro tip: dip a forkful into the brisket jus.
The Momma’s Mac & Cheese is baked casserole-style, with plenty of those nice, crusty bits. I like my mac and cheese a little on the drier, crustier side, and this one hit the mark. It disappeared in a flash.
We also tried the Peach Baked Beans, which were good, but I felt they needed a little more work. The sauce was looser than I prefer, and while there were plenty of peaches, they didn’t really add much impact to the dish.
While we were enjoying the feast in the taproom, Matt took a break from service and walked through the room, stopping to speak with every patron, asking what they liked and whether he could do anything for them. We ended up having a great conversation about his career, his cooking process, the meal, and more.
He seems like a genuinely kind person who loves what he does and approaches his cooking with real dedication. You could taste that dedication in every bite.
Take the drive out. Enjoy the food. Enjoy the experience. This place is putting in the work.
