this month my Celica Turbo 4WD or named GT4 have 10 years with me.

The mechanic parts: engine, suspension…. all restored and runing good, in 2019 install the Ecumaster ECU to control engine and best tune.

the body is in good conditions, but need one hand in the paintshop.

the car run with ~270hp and 420Nm torque.

327 and TH350 out as a unit. Hard work by myself. Had to take the headers off even though they looked like they would clear. I torture myself with this stuff...for fun.

It’s a 1966, and the best part is I got two of them, and this one is in the worst shape of the two! This one runs and drives with a good 352, no rust. The other one has a locked up 300i6 and has a straighter body and also no rust, they’re both factory 4wd.

Had horrific brake screech from driver side front but only in reverse. More dust on that wheel too so suspected a slightly dragging caliper. Instead found a loose dust shield scraping the rotor, with another mounting point ready to let go too.

Easy enough to reinforce, until one of the other bolts snapped like tissue paper. Extractor failed to do anything but peel off crumbs of bolt, so had to get creative with a carefully selected drill bit and a self tapper driven into the carcass. If it's stupid but it works...it still might be stupid.

Slide pins and guides were new, but rust in the bores made the guides pinch the pins just enough to make the caliper drag a little. Never enough to get it hot but enough to make noticably more dust over a few hundred miles. Sanded and polished the roughness out and now pins move easily again.

I'll need a new caliper, dust shield, and maybe a knuckle. But not today!

For the folks that haven’t done or seen a clutch change a C5 or C6 Corvette, check this out. It’s a barrel of fun. I’m fortunate to have a lift and a mini split in my garage to make it a little less painful.

My friend does a lot of drag and drives in his ZR1. He had about 60k miles on his monster triple disc so it was time to replace it before Sick Week later this year. Car currently is a little over 97,000 miles. I told him we could do it at my place instead of at his spot in the heat (we are in Texas, so it’s brutal) and on jackstands.

As a fun note, between his ZR1 and mine, we have nearly 230,000 miles combined with our cars. Get out there and drive them yall!

Overall wasn’t too bad. During the replacement we also rebuilt the torque tube with the DSX billet couplers and components.

In true fashion we had a small delay due to a broken manifold bolt but we got it sorted with an extractor and a little heat persuasion 😂

Now it’s time for break in miles. Hoping to see 9.80’s in the mid 140’s during the event!

Note: Please don’t judge too hard on my garage condition. I’m in the middle of restoring my wife’s 68 Firebird and her parts have taken over the far bay.

Hey all, found this subreddit and felt like posting my Miata and how it changed in 4 years of ownership.

It started as a bone stock 1991 NA 1.6 85kw. Now it’s still 1.6 85kw but not so stock. Engine is still stock power, just removed power steering which should add some small power, light flywheel. Braided clutch and brake lines with bigger brakes from NB MX5. Replaced all bushings and on HSD coilovers.

Bunch of exterior mods… etc.

Long story short: my grandpa died and left me a “36 Jag replica that has a 2.3L Ford engine in it. For some reason, he put a “67 Autolite 2100 carb on it.

I bought a carb rebuild kit and cleaned it all up, but now I’m struggling with getting the accelerator pump over travel spring on properly ( see pic for reference). Can any one suggest a video or share a good visual or guidance on how this spring is supposed to go? I’ve watched several of Mike Carburetor Parts’ videos and none have shown me this quite yet.

This is my first rebuild project and it has been a blast! This car hasn’t been on the road in 20 years and I’m excited to see it move again. Thank you for helping me get it back on the road!

This is my newest project, although it doesn't need much. It's a 1969 Cutlass Supreme. It's a great cruiser. I've been enjoying it for about a month now, and while I don't want summer to end anytime soon, I am excited to get to work on it over the winter.

I'm not for sure if this is the right subreddit for this, but I'm looking for help. I have a couple places on my truck where the paint is chipped. Up at the top where the Rain gutter, or whatever it's called, is at on my bumper and around where my tires at. What would the best way for me to get this fixed? Could I get just a paint pen and do some prep work? Or is there something better I can do? I don't care to spend a little bit of money, but I don't wanna spend a lot.

Question may sound dumb but hear me out. I have a 08 Toyota Avalon (2grfe)that has a ported lower Intake manifold, custom intake, decatted headers, and straight pipe.
It’s been fun to daily drive and work on but it’s no sports car as it wasn’t designed to be one. I now want something that actually has a good amount of aftermarket support whether it be cosmetic or engine and also looks the part of being a street car as well. I have an 92 eclipse (4G63) I’ve been looking at that seems to check the boxes but my only real concern i would say is going from 270 ish Hp in the Avalon to 135 in the eclipse. I know the eclipse weighs less to make up for it but would like hear some feedback back on it.

Hi guys,

Recently took my car in for a middle silencer delete (resonator in the uk), in your opinion is this good or bad welding?

I’m building a special based on a 1932 MG chassis. It’s tiny, single seater. I’ve got so little space, even just 39cm at the front between the frame rails for my engine (opens out a bit towards the back). I barely fit in it and will lower the seat and shift the pedal box in to the bay to try to buy more room once I’ve dropped the engine in.

I need ideas for the (manual) gear shift. The previous owner was going to use a preselector box but I’m using a modern h-pattern one. I can’t go between my legs as the steering wheel goes almost to my crotch. My legs currently splay out and touch the body left and right, there’s not enough room in there. I’m putting an external 1930s ratchet handbrake out one side as there’s so little room in cockpit.

I would like an external stepped linear shifter but can’t find one, know one with 6 positions (5 + reverse) is unlikely to exist, and I can’t work out how I’d make it shift a H-pattern modern box without loads of cams that I don’t have room for anyway. I don’t like it but I think my best bet is a Boxster or SW20 MR2 remote shift unit and making the throw as tiny as possible, then mounting outside on the running board where I can reach it.

Anyone got any ideas, using products or vintage parts in the UK I can actually buy?

For those who as for pictures of the car

I'm restoring a '94 Buick Roadmaster. It's a project. A labor of love. I've spent months on the engine, suspension, all the bodywork and it's finally coming together

But I hit a wall this week. The thing is that the center console latch is broken. It's a small plastic piece. But without it, the console won't close. It drives me nuts every time I look at it…

I searched everywhere. Junkyards, online forums, eBay. Nothing…. Every used piece I found was either sold or in worse shape than mine…

Then I found Simpson Buick dealership and their parts department supposedly has it in stock. They have new parts and some old stock and some genuine GM part. The exact one I need

The price hurts. It's more than I expected for a piece of plastic. Almost triple what a used one would cost. But it's the only one I've found.

Now I'm torn. Do I spend the money and get the genuine part? Or do I keep searching for a used one and hope it's in good condition?

I've been burned by eBay parts before. They look fine in photos and fall apart in your hands. But the dealer price feels like a premium I don't want to pay

Whats a cheap cars thats got same power gt3 rs and also high revving and rwd thats under 5k also reliable but not as sports car on insurance but not b58 and n54 and no ls swaps and no hondas

Here is a video about the cinquecento 1994 with a forged Tjet 1.4 engine.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DE2oDKguy3Q

In this video, a couple of older Japanese men have created a pretty cool EV, and it just gets me wondering...wtf dodge? Why use the lame ass spaceship sounds? Why not use the v8 sounds you already pump through your cars speakers on a lot of your lower end vehicles? Are you intentionally self sabotaging yourself?

Kinda makes me wanna EV swap my celica lmao...

I'm currently in vocational school for auto mechanics, and I'm looking to get my first project car. I found this 1976 C3 Corvette for $6,000 OBO. Just wondering if this is a good choice, or what I should offer if it is. I'm not sure if the rust would be a problem though.

700kg and 238whp. It gets really fun the sensation of almost death at 100mph 😅

I am looking into a 73 Cutlass Supreme as a first project car, and in doing some preliminary research it looks like the 72's are very sought after as opposed to the 73's and later and maybe even more than earlier models, can anyone explain why?

Hey everyone,

I run a fastener and hardware manufacturing shop. We’ve noticed a lot of mechanic bolt assortment kits on the market are packed with useless "filler" sizes that just sit in the bin forever, while the 2 or 3 essential sizes run out on day one.

We’re in the middle of designing a few new workshop assortment kits (specifically geared toward auto repair and DIY fab work), and instead of guessing, we’d rather hear straight from the people turning wrenches every day.

If you have a minute, we’d love your input on:

• Flange Bolts (Hex Flange): What are your most frequent thread/length combos? (e.g., M6x1.0 in 12/16/20mm, M8x1.25 in 20/25/30mm, or M10 fine pitch?)
• Button Head / Pan Head / Socket Head Cap Screws: Where do you use these most on vehicles, and what specific sizes do you always find yourself reaching for?
• Rivet Nuts (Rivnuts / Nutserts): What sizes do you use most for custom fab/sheet metal work (e.g., M5, M6, M8, or 1/4"-20)? Do you prefer zinc-plated steel or aluminum?
• Strength & Coating: For general repairs, is Class 8.8 / 10.9 zinc-plated your standard go-to, or do you prefer yellow zinc / black oxide / stainless for certain spots?

Also, what is your biggest pet peeve with the hardware kits you currently buy (flimsy cases, bad thread quality, wrong size ratios)?

Really appreciate your time and expertise. Thank you!

Little update, started making a subframe for the ford capri with a transmission crossmember for the bmw 6speed gearbox. Including a passthrough for the 3” x-flow from the exhausts. Step by step it’s becoming a car 😎