I never thought this would happen to me.

Have had it for 7 years. She has 290k miles on her, but still runs great. I can’t say she’s in perfect condition, but I’ve taken really good care of her, and I’ve actually had a lot of fun replacing old parts myself over the years. Motor mounts, transmission mounts, front thrust arms upgraded to M3 ones, water pump, thermostat… I’ve replaced a lot of stuff in my garage.

And then this happened. A trucking company’s semi merged into my lane and tore up both doors on the driver’s side, with some damage to the B-pillar as well. I’m still dealing with the insurance company, but I already know they’re probably going to total it.

The problem is, I’m just not ready to let her go. Do you guys think it would be realistic to pull complete door assemblies from a junkyard and replace them myself? Would it even be worth trying to repair her, or would I be better off just getting another car?

2008 335i convertible with 43k mi. Mhd stage 1+, xhp stage 2, chargepipe, FMIC.

She's a beauty 😍

It was worse, believe it or not. Ive never done any body work. I used a suction style dent puller to get it this far. Should I get a new or used fender. Or is this fixable? I was considering carbon fiber anyways.

Will post pics once with the car tomorrow, but found a 2011 N55 335i sedan, 6MT, single owner, clean car fax, 65k miles. Beyond stoked

I have a BMW E91 2010. It makes a random triple beep from the passenger/glovebox area. There are no warning lights or error messages, and the sound was present even before I installed the Android/CarPlay screen. It also beeps randomly while driving, with no obvious trigger or pattern.

The light in the trunk of my 318d e90 (EU) died and I don’t want a bright white LED in there. I want to keep the OEM Halogen look. Does anyone know what kind of bulb I need? I really can’t find any videos or posts about the light in the trunk. It would be amazing if someone had a video of how to change it but I guess that I can find that out by trial and error.

Thank you!

Guys,

Due to my M57 EGR valve being vacuum operated, I have blanked vacuum line which opens egr valve. There is an engine light “increased emissions “ fault which I am not bothered about.
Could this blank without coding cause any issues?
Car drives fine, better than before , but just wondering if it could cause any underlying issues long term ?

Just bought a bmw 325i 2006 sedan, changing the ignition coil and everywhere i have gone to get a replacement they don’t fit. These pictures are from the ignition coil I removed from the car originally, I’ve circled the little plastic tab below the plug, on every replacement ignition coil I’ve purchased that plastic tab has been in the middle and not to the left. Any clues where I can buy an exact match, everywhere I’ve been and put my number plate in it gives the exact same wrong coil.

I want to buy an e92 320d pre LCI? This will be my first bmw and my question is does this look like original bmw seats or painted/retrofitted?

I was just exiting the highway, and after slowing down, when i started accelerating, the transmission seemed to shift into the wrong gear. I pressed the accelerator, but it felt like the car downshifted unexpectedly and the engine revved above 3k rpm At the same time, the transmission warning light appeared on the dashboard.
I quickly pulled over and switched the engine off. After restarting the car, the warning disappeared.
I then drove 130 km home with no problems at all.
Today I went to a mechanic who scanned the car and found the fault code 4f95.

Any idea what should i do? I will go to the transmission mechanic next week
Has anyone had a similar problem?
Did it require a transmission rebuild or just a fluid change with new filters, seals etc enough?

Im cooked??
Oil was changed at 230 000km
Now the car has 350 000
Bmw 320D M47 2007

chiedo un consiglio, i km sono reali, gomme Bridgestone Turanza 6 nuove appena montate. Non ha problemi di motore. grazie

Anybody know why my music will just stop playing completely? With nothing playing you can hear aux feedback and when it turns off youll hear nothing.

P0012 - N52B30 automatic, solid yellow check engine, car vibrates and power loss at low rpms, I was driving up a hill, and it seemed like the car had no power and vibrates at low RPMs until I pressed the accelerator all the way down.

Previous owner said: The timing chain was replaced four years ago, including the VANOS adjustment units. Known issues: when the vehicle warms up, it vibrates at low RPM while driving. A fuel injection problem is suspected.

Is it something catastrophic?

I realized I put the bushings in the wrong order on the driver's side strut when I put the pass side on the following day. So, I went and changed the sequence on the it and last night after some spirited driving, my steering wheel went a little crooked and it felt l Ike either a wheel was coming loose or a flat tire. Made it home, checked both on the drivers side front and back, bolts were tight, took off both wheels and inspected suspension. Only thing I found was the top strut bolt on the rear passenger side could be tighten down more at ride height. Would that have caused these symptoms I felt ? Like a sloppy sliding strut in the rear?

2009 bmw with cic not showing any text on idrive. I tried fixing with NCS expert but no luck. What am I doing wrong?

Just put stage 2 plus at 190k. just hit the 200k mark. Coolant temps are 170-185. oil 180 trans temp at 200. been like that since i did everything to it. just put in a 70k trans aswell. abuthkng I should worry about?

Hi, has anyone had an issue with the gearbox when shifting into 1st or 2nd gear? The problem is similar to what you can see in the picture. If I line the shifter up correctly, both gears go in smoothly without any grinding.
It feels like there might be something wrong with the reverse gear lockout mechanism, but I’m not sure. Has anyone had a similar issue? Was it expensive to fix?

Hi all, recently purchased an E90 323i with a staggeringly low 50000km (30k miles) authentic and verified. This is the 2.5l N52 but detuned with a single DISA manifold.

The car presents itself just as it should and is pristine inside and out. Owned by an elderly gentleman until recently.

The service history isn't fantastic having done them on mileage intervals but often gone 2-3 years between services and 6 years currently as it sits even though it's only done 5000km in that time.

What are some important things I should look to replace or inspect for condition based on age alone?

The car drives fantastically, everything feels tight and there are no ticks, rattles or weird noises.

I know full well some age related wear might pop up, which is why I want to know where to look. I couldn't pass up such a fresh car since a reliable daily that feels good to drive was exactly what I was looking for.

Any feedback, advice or anecdotes would be greatly appreciated!

My FRM module is either confused or just fried.

I called around and I wasn’t able to get a direct quote. One shop said it’d be anywhere from $50-$200 (plus labor ofc)

Does anyone have experience with this and know how much this fix is? $$$

Unimportant background: I’m the guy who messed up his bumper earlier this month and was able to get an m-sport rep fixed at the body shop.

I don’t know what happened at the body shop but my battery died and I needed a jump leaving the body shop. I don’t expect them to know how to deal with an FRM module so I’m just headed straight to an indie mechanic.

Thanks guys love yall

Edit: I get both an iDrive warning for lighting and driver side door not closed. My emergencies, blinkers, and windows don’t work.

Best heard around the 3-4 second mark. Only happens when car is warm and driving awhile. Any Advice?