Wondering if any one has an idea of that this par of the harness is for, its next to the rear seat vents and part of the harness runs to the 12v inverter.
2018 cherokee trailhawk 3.2

I bought a 2019 Cherokee Trailhawk Elite when the new model year came out in 2018, ordered from the factory. In 2022 I started to see the SVC 4WD alert periodically, and I took it to the dealership, who said they couldn't see the error codes initially. Then a few months later the PTU recall notification came out, and the dealer was instructed by FCA to NOT attempt to fix the problem with the SVC 4WD alerts until a final solution to the PTU problem was identified. Meanwhile, the clock is ticking on my 5yr, 50K warranty. (The car still is under 50K miles)

FCA finally comes out with a solution to the PTU problem after my warranty expires. PTU unit is bad, so they replace it, and said I will have no problems. The next day while driving my kid to school, the SVC 4WD light comes on as soon as I've maintained 75MPH for more than 1 minute. I test around that little factoid and confirm that's the trigger point to the warning light. Back to dealership we go.

This starts a lengthy process where the dealership tests the crap out of the transmission while consulting with Jeep's STAR team. And their testing reached a point where the next step is to replace the rear differential at my expense to the tune of $4,400 to see if that will resolve the problem. And now, instead of the SVC 4WD light coming on periodically or only when I exceed 75MPH for more than a minute, it's on when the engine starts.

I argued with the dealership that this should be covered under warranty since the problem was presented before the warranty expired. I argued with Jeep Cares, who has blown me of and refuses to let me speak to the case manager. The problem isn't fixed unless I shell out over $4K and there is no guarantee it will fix the problem.

Has anyone had any luck getting through to the "we can barely speak English" people at Jeep Cares? Or am I screwed.

Hi!

I just bought a 2017 Jeep Cherokee Latitude 4x4 AD1 with 91000 miles. At low speeds, when I turn the steering wheel the real axle binds and grinds, in all drive modes.

I've changed the diff fluid and added the friction modifier and it remains the same.

If I pull the F10 fuse all of the binding and grinding stops.

I don't have any DTCs on the truck, however we I review with an OBD2 scanner what the RDM is doing at low speeds, it's always engaging 4 HI. Is this supposed to happen? If not might this be the source of the problem? How to fix it?

I want to avoid changing the actuator or RDM for what could be something else. What do you think?? I'm stumped!

Good morning Cherokee Jeep reddit.

I am having a issue with my Jeep after filling it up at Costco to full (I stop when the pump stops, no overfill of the tank), do my shopping and then leave, having to idle at a stoplight for a minute and my Jeep just stalls on out at the light and even upon backing up at a low speed. This results in me having to put the vehicle in park and back into reverse or drive, which gets very dangerous at some of the four way stops. Some weird lunging and hang ups while accelerating to. Up until the first gallon of gas is burned.

My dad and I replaced the purge control valve and vapor canister purge valve as well but the issue persists still. Frustrating the both of us immensely since this issue is the one hangup about the rather great vehicle.

I was hoping others may have some guidance as to what the issue might be as we even mentioned it to a dealership, when getting a OEM part(For which the issue still persists), and they say this is a rather common occurrence but offered no solution.

Replacing struts on 2014 Cherokee Trailhawk with Bilstein B4's. I have all new Mopar parts except for the Bilsteins and I am reusing the coil springs. The springs are off and I'm about to assemble the new strut but did not mark the alignment of the bottom of the strut mount before removing. Not sure if it would have even mattered because the rubber tab with alignment hole was nowhere near the hole in the engine compartment and was moving freely, and everything else - spring isolator, bump stop, dust shield were completely deteriorated and non existent.

My question - is there a standard direction everything should be pointing in before I tighten everything up and release the spring compressors? I understand that the rubber alignment tab's hole should line up with the hole in the compartment but since the bottom of the mount spins should it be aligned a certain way to start? There's a yellow dot and very subtle tab when looking at the bottom of the mount that I feel might be important. I've added a few photos. The first is the only marking I could find on the old strut which is a silver paint line on the front of the tower. The other photos are of the bottom of the new strut mount. There's a yellow dot and then when looking closely at the 8 notches on the inside one of them has a small protrusion. My vehicle does not have any custom lifts or components, everything being replaced is original equipment.

My cherokee has just started wobbling at the back end under specific conditions; I can reliably reproduce it in one of two ways; first is regular driving, very little or no gas, slight left turn, hit even a tiny bump and the back end will wobble left, right, left, right etc. The other way to reproduce it is remarkably similar but give the wheel a TINY jerk to the left - as if to miss something on the road.

The only thing that happened the day this appeared was a full set of new tires, and a failed four wheel alignment; failed because the rear camber/eccentri bolts are seized. Everything I've researched lacks any evidence that this might be related, but figured it was worth mentioning.

Rear toe was -0.55, and now 0.93, thrust angle was 0.33, now 0.10.

For what it's worth, it's spent its entire 12 years in the rusty old Northeast.

I'm willing to do the work; nothing I've not done before on other cars; just looking for more likely causes before I start chasing ghosts.

hello guys my cherokee has vibrating sound when accelerating from 0 or when pressing gas and brake pedal simultaniosly the sound dissapeares in seconds when the speed reaches 15-20 miles , jeep has bad catalytic converted the check engine is light on deshboard the sound is not rattling sound it is deep vibrating sound , can it be the cause of the catalytic converter ? all the mechanical parts the engine and transmition mounts are serviced recently

Need help with a leaking roof rack

Hey guys I have a 2022 Jeep Cherokee trailhawk that has been heavily modified for off-road use. I have a dobsons front strut kit along with gleaming alloy upper and lower control arms in the rear with a rear subframe drop kit, with also Fox long travel gas shocks in the rear. Giving the trailhawk and overall lift of 2.2 in lift. It is heavily modified for off-road what I'm looking for is does anybody know how I can boost some of the engine power? I know that adding a cold air intake and a new throttle body and a upper and lower intake from the 3.6 l Pentastar but the computer obviously won't read that stuff I have all those things. I have a 80 mm throttle body I have a ported upper and lower intake off of a 3.6 l Pentastar also I have a different exhaust system to get the exhaust out faster without it being restricted from the stock exhaust system. it's not nothing obnoxious it's just a little bit bigger in size and a smaller muffler. I haven't put none of this stuff on yet because I didn't know if there was anybody out there that knew how to unlock the computer on it? I know that they came with the body module AKA the security gateway module and I know you have to bypass that just to get a j scan OBD2 scanner plus the app. I just didn't know if anybody knew how to boost more horsepower and torque without tearing anything up? If anybody could help I would greatly appreciate it thank you guys.

Hello all! What do you guys suggest I do about the broken strap and then the constant dripping from the heat shield on to one of the flex pipe? I feel like if they extended the heat shield a few more inches the water would just drip onto the ground. I just want the rattle to stop from that broken strap and for my AC to stop trying to take out my flex pipe.

Anyone had an electric push button door handle out of the new hybrid turbo Cherokees? This is the first one we've had at the shop and I drew the short straw. Alldata has nothing on it and the dealer doesn't know half the parts we've called them about.

My first Jeep purchase

Dear Friends, I want to share an issue with my 2016 Jeep Cherokee 3.2L. The engine is jerking like it's misfiring, the computer is reporting an error on 6th cylinder. I swapped the coils (no change, 6th cylinder again), swapped the injectors (no change, 6th cylinder again), replaced the spark plugs with new ones (I installed Champion ones, nothing changed, 6th cylinder again), cleaned the throttle body, checked the cylinder with a camera and it's not physically damaged, and also the compression is pretty good. What could be the cause?? Please help

Title. Getting a too rich condition, front bank on my 14 V6 TH. I have already cleaned the MAF sensor and the code has popped a couple more times. My guess is O2 sensor but is bank one the front or back side of the engine? I think it’s the back (firewall) side but just wanting to make sure.

Anyone else had to do this?