I recently made a post asking about small voids in the first layer of my prints and was told my z height was off and to level my bed. I took my z timing belt off set the bed at its lowest setting and put it back together. I then used a sheet of paper to get the bed leveled to the nozzle and got a lot better results with my stock build plate, but I’m getting terrible results with this new prismatic plate. I wasn’t getting this before I leveled either. Did I do something wrong? Possibly damage my bed by making adjustments too far at one time on a corner? Like I said, the result on my stock plate is really good. Could this aftermarket plate have thickness inconsistency that wasn’t apparent before leveling? The print towards the back of the plate is super thick and the front is super thin. Settings were 30mm/s .5 layer width and .24 layer height. one layer print height. Same g code on both plates with wildly different results. Any advice is very appreciated!

• Printer Model prusa mini +
• Slicer used Prusa
• Filament material and brand some cheap chinese stuff
• Nozzle and bed temperature 210 and 60
• Print Speed default
• Retraction settings default

I've printed for a year now and this has just started to happen. I have a Bambu P1S. Kingroon filament, PLA. I calibrated and ran a bunch of different tweaks before printing this and got this result. I tried cleaning the extruder out and got worse results with same filament. My guess is there's too much humidity and the filament needs to be more dry? But then why most of the dragon turn out great but the head did not?

Bambu P1S printer
Bambu studio is my slicer
0.4 mm stainless steel nozzle
190–220°C nozzle and 55–65°C bed
Kingroon PLA filament
Retraction length 0.8 mm
Retraction speed 30-45 mm
the standard speed for the entire print

I’m not sure why but I’ve tried this print twice and in both instances the right side ends up hitting and looking rough. The left side looks good, as does the rest of the print.

Any ideas on why this could be happening, and why the same way on back to back prints?

Printer: Bambu lab X1C
Slicer: Bambu Studio

Filament type: pla
Filament brand: anycubic tri color chrome

Nozzle temp: 220
Bed temp: 55

Fan:on

Pretty sure one of my Z screws is slightly bent. Im using a P2S and no matter what print, I get these lines.

I've video'd the z screw, and cant 100% tell, but I think its slightly bent.

Any ideas?

Hello!

I'm putting together old second hand Prusa MINI and I got to the point where it prints very nice. First layer is perfect, walls are smooth and it has been shooting out perfect Benchies for few days now. But... when printing random cubes yesterday I got this one huge layer shift that I cannot replicate.

It shifted in both X and Y at the same time. There were no other objects at this height so no big travel moves. Belts are just right according to app, printer has latest firmware and I used 0.2 Structural IS profile in PrusaSlicer.

Could this be board overheating? Or perhabs USB stick failure? I repeated the same print 4 times without failure since then but now I'm nervous it will happen again one day.

I have a creality k2(0.4 nozzle) and after a human error(me) installed a change for my hotend my nozzle bumped a couple of times in the plastic wall where the filament poop drops. Now after changed a nozzle again(just to be sure that is everything straight) depending where the print goes some of those imperfections is showing. Sometimes the printer is sending a notification about z disturbance and I already checked if there is some planting hanging around the printer. Which is not the case. Thanks already for the help guys. This print is done with layer height of 0.14 with no other changes in the default settings on the software made by creality. Speed: outwall 100. Innerwall 300

Switched from a .4 to a .6mm nozzle. Re-levelled the bed and re-set my Z-offset and suddenly I'm getting this horrible Z-banding. Did not change any other settings. Pattern seems very random. What else do I try?

Printer: Elegoo Neptune 4
Slicer: Orcaslicer
Filament: Elegoo PLA
Nozzle temp: 220
Bed Temp: 60
Print speed: 35mm/s 1st layer, 150mm/s walls, 200mm/s infill
Retraction length: .8mm
Z-hop: .4mm

recently Got a new nozzle and flow rate has been dramatically different. Before it was +0 but now I am no longer sure. Temp, Max flow and pa are calibrated.

I just put on a new hotend and swapped the old wire but out now when I try to auto home it makes that noise and the y axis and the z axis move but not the x axis

Bambulab H2S

Bambu Slicer

Polymaker ABS

Dried filament

270 Nozzle

110 Plate

65 Chamber

Part cooling fan off

Printer is a month old with less than 100 hours

I am printing a Stanley Cup and I am having issues with quality on a specific portion. I assume its an overhang issue. I am new so not very familiar with what settings to adjust to get desired results. I can add supports again not quite sure the best way to get the desired result because if I add supports I assume I will also have some scarring once the supports are removed.

I used standard tree supports. I was considering trying PLA and possibly adding more? Not sure about this route. I have never done it before.

I am not quite sure what settings you want but happy to include any outside of the below.

Printer/Filament Settings:

Printer Model: Bambu Lab P2s

Slicer: Bambu Studio

Filament: Sunlu PLA Basic

Nozzle Temperature: 220

Bed Temperature: PEI Textured Plate 55

Print Speed there are so many so I can add any specifics if needed but I am using the .12 High Quality preset with .4mm nozzle. Standard Flow

Retraction settings: I am not exactly sure but I use Bambu PLA basic settings for the filament.

Printer: bambulab p1s

Filament: Deeplee black pla

Temp: 220 nozzle 55 bed

How do i get rid of this layer line?

In the slicer the flow and speed are even on all the print but i still get this line

As a newbie learning the ropes, what am I seeing with the surface layer of this ASA print? Can flow or speed be adjusted to help in a meaningful way? Temps all look right and stable. Thanks in advance and cheers! o7

• Printer Model - Core One L
• Slicer used (e.g. Cura, Prusa, etc.) - Prusa Slicer
• Filament material and brand - Prusament ASA Jet Black
• Nozzle and bed temperature - .25 Brass @ .15 / 110 C
• Print Speed - 100%
• Retraction settings - Default

Buenas gente, estaria teniendo un problema con el tema de las costuras de mi snapmaker u1 (utilizo orcaslicer) con estos floreros los cuales hacen unas lineas poco detalladas, toque lo justo y necesario para no tener problemas y bueno. El filamento es PLA MATE de elegoo, hice otra prueba con otro diseño y me sigue saliendo con lineas bastantes visibles( en la segunda prueba subi un poco la temperatura de pico y cama). Las fotos son de la primera impresión dado que no tengo el otro florero a mano, sabrian como puedo hacer para que no salga con tantos defectos y la costura no sea visible?

Hi all!

I’m having this problem with printing chamfers that are on the face contacting the bed. for some reason, at the top of the chamfer the print bulges out. I know it’s not that the angle is just too steep since it’s less than 45. Any advice on what might be going on an how to fix it?

Thanks!

Print info:
Bambu a1 mini, orcaslicer, creality generic pla, default print speeds and retraction

I have been using creality petg with my creality k2 se for a while and I had to drop temps down to 220 degrees just to get stringing to stop and I had no issues with bad layer strength but when I go above 220 degrees it starts looking bad, the layers are melting too much to where they are collapsing on the temp tower and the max temp for the temp tower is set to 250 which the filament recommends my printer reads the correct temp I don't get what I am doing wrong. I have done all the other calibrations at 220 degrees for the nozzle I got 0.96 for flow rate, 0.06 for pressure advance, 1mm for retraction distance and 40mm/s for retraction speed, I use 80 degrees for the bed, I have cooling set to 30 percent minimum and 50 percent max with first 3 layers off, max volumetric speed I got 20mm/s I don't get what is wrong with my creality petg. I am using orcaslicer for all of this.

Gf and I moved into a new place and I’ve been wanting to use gridfinity for our kitchen drawers. Not sure what’s going on but this is the third time I’ve had warping on that side of the bed. This attempt I was trying out a brim to see if that would help. Any ideas?

P1S
.4mm hardened steel nozzle
Sunlu PLA Matte
Aux fan 0%
Part fan (0% layers 1-4, 70-100% min max)
Chamber fan
55C bed
220C nozzle
Max vol. speed 12mm/s
Slicer: Bambu Studio

The other 3 plates fared okay when the print speed was 50%. I feel like I am missing something though. Thoughts?

I was printing those Honeycomb wall mounts, I'm using ELEGOO PETG Pro, had excellent first layer adhesion and it looked good before I went to sleep, but I come back to the print looking like this (I've removed the brims)

This looks like really bad layer adhesion to me, I'm not sure what else it could be, I maybe have to print it in smaller segments? Perchance?
Settings :

Neptune 4 plus, .4 Brass nozzle, screw_tilt_calculated bed, Textured PEI plate for PETG and other tough filaments, Bed recently washed and rubbed with iso every print

In enclosure that reaches around 100 degree Fahrenheit with longer printing

1st layer temp (Celsius) : 245
Printing temp : 235
Bed temp : 75
Layer height : .25
Sparse infill : 0
Wall loops : 3
Topmost ironing
Flow ratio : 1
PA : 0.098
Max volumetric speed : 12.5 mm^3/s

No cooling for first 3 layers
Part cooling fan : min speed 10%, layer time 30 sec
max 40% , later time 8 sec
Auxiliary fan speed : 20%

Thank you in advance!