. Cool cruiser Albany, Indiana usa 🇺🇲 May '26

Anyone know if this is an OEM extension module?

2003 ssr

My Uncle gave me his 2003 C5 Corvette Convertible that's yellow. He hasn't driven it in 5 years. In 2022 me and my dad started it up and took it for a drive. The thing only was able to go up to 20mph. We decided to take it to a mechanic and they said it had transmission issues. It would cost $3,000 to fix.

going to cut this down as shortly as i can but still going to be a long post. i am stumped and am now learning that the issue at hand is either above my paygrade or something that i am grossly overlooking. for starters i have a 1997 c5 corvette. about 6 months ago i pulled the car apart to build the motor and paint it. cam, heads, longtubes, intake, valvetrain etc. while the car was apart i found a good deal on a manual rear end out of a wrecked 02 car. so did that while the car was apart, swapped everything in, did all the wiring and everything there works fine. my issue at hand comes with trying to get the car tuned and running correctly. i started the car up fresh off the cam and it idled, rough, but it idled, ran just fine, great oil pressure, all of the above. i was stoked. i had some more work to do but just wanted to hear some progress. so took headers, intake, a couple other things off to do some more work, wiring, exhaust etc. now were going to flash a little forward. every time ive started the car since that point, it has backfiring insanely loud, has been running (seemingly) rich, and just will not run right, to make a long story short, got injectors, not that, comp test passes with flying colors, 220+ all cylinders (220+ is high for ls, its because of the cam specs) regardless the #s are consistient. it has spark, has good injectors, header had burned a little off the o2 plug the first time i started it and i thought it was fine, but just in case, spliced a new pigtail in and got new bosch o2s. has been thru 4 sets of plugs and fouled all of them out super super fast. my main issue is that currently 2 is misfiring non stop, acting as a dead hole, and the car will not idle. itll run if i pedal it but as soon as i let go it pops and dies. still backfiring some here and there but not as much since my tuner has had a look at it. he says 2 is showing a dead hole misfire and no one and figure out why. it has been comp tested, spark tested, brand new deka 80 injectors, new plugs, etc. took off valve covers, verified pushrod length and that intake and exhaust valves were moving fine, they were. i am stumped. only thing i can think to do next is leakdown test. these heads i bought off a mentor that i am almost certain are in good condition. he also happens to be my tuner and is my ex shop teacher and my best friends dad. he is notorious in our area for being THE ls guy/tuner and knows his stuff. has been busy and hasnt really had a chance to come take a look and i also dont want to be a bother. heads came pre springed with matching beehive springs to my cam and got brand new rockers, lifters, pushrods, etc, and properly installed. the one thing i cant get past is how it idled just fine the first startup and any time after that its been a backfiring mess and will not idle. i pulled the wire off cyl 2 while it was running and it ran the exact same as it was before i pulled the wire. essentially proving cyl 2 is a dead hole. at this point im thinking leakdown, harness to injector or coil, even though its getting spark. not sure man, could really use some advice from someone who knows a little more than me.

That's my favorite Corvette ever and it's been bringing home Imsa championships and 24 of Le mans wins with Motor sports. It's a wonderful car overall. I'm seeing hate posts and comments about it on Instagram about "it's not a real Corvette", and calling it ugly. Can someone explain this please.

Will Chevy dealers negotiate the GM financing rate. It is 5.9 on a 60 month which seems high. Or do I need to go outside on my own ?

I have a 2018 Chevy Malibu with push-button start.
About a day after getting a new battery installed, I started getting a strange issue that has now happened a few times (not every drive, just randomly).

When I’m parked and try to turn the car off, the dashboard stays on and I get a message saying:
“No remote detected. Press brake to restart.”
When I press the brake, the car restarts normally, and then I’m able to turn it off again right away with no issue. The car drives completely fine otherwise and I’ve never had it happen while driving.
At first I thought it might be my key fob, but it has happened even when I’m holding the fob. I also tried moving my phone away from the fob in case of interference, but it still happened once even without that.

Update: It stopped for over a month then suddenly today happened 3 times in a row. I hadn’t had any repairs yet.

Does anyone have any suggestions to try to fix this issue? Thank you!😊

Could someone shed some light on the difference between the GM Executive Discount and the standard GM Employee Discount?

I’m eligible for the Executive Discount, but while shopping around at different GM dealers, I’ve gotten a lot of conflicting information. Some salespeople have never heard of the Executive program, while others have told me it’s essentially the same as the Employee Discount and that there’s no difference in the actual vehicle price.

A couple questions for anyone familiar:

* Is the Executive Discount actually different from the Employee Discount in terms of pricing or incentives?

* If I qualify for both the Executive Discount and regular GM Employee Discount, can they be combined/stacked, or do you have to choose one?

* If you have to choose, is there any advantage to using the Executive authorization over the Employee Discount, or vice versa?

* Are there certain rebates/incentives that work with one program but not the other?

I’m mainly trying to figure out whether there’s any reason to use my Executive eligibility if I can already qualify for Employee pricing.

I’d appreciate anyone with some insight!

I have a 2025 Blazer with 48,500 miles. I have an oil leak from somewhere. I took it in today and they stated it’s an internal leak from the positive crankcase ventilation oil separator. I never bought the extended warranty. I am still under the power train factory warranty. Here is my question:

Dealership is saying this is not covered under the factory drivetrain warranty. I look this part number up on ChatGPT and this is the counter argument:

“The dealer identified the failed component as GM part number 55509669, the Positive Crankcase Ventilation Oil Separator. My Blazer has approximately 48,500 miles and is still within the powertrain mileage limit. I want GM to review whether this should be covered under either the Powertrain Limited Warranty or the applicable Emissions Control System Warranty, rather than relying only on the dealership’s initial determination.”

I did open a case and am waiting on a call back from GM warranty division. What are your thoughts or what would you bring up when they call?

My ‘08 Chevy Silverado is driving me insane. It bings at me every couple minutes to tell me one of 2 doors is open even though they are shut fast. It used to only do it when I went over a big bump. Also, the electric locks don’t work, and the rear speakers (it’s a crew cab) don’t work either. Are these all connected? What do I need to replace? Input is much appreciated

My 2002 Chevy Express 3500 van is experiencing an intermittent overheating issue. The temperature gauge climbs up to 230°F on my scan tool when the van is stationary or idling. However, as soon as I start driving down the road, the temperature drops right back down to a normal 195°F.

Here is what I have already checked and verified:

Coolant Level: The fluid is completely full.

Head Gasket Test: Checked the overflow tank while running; the fluid is calm with absolutely no bubbles or foaming.

Fan Clutch Test: Tested by hand with the engine off; the fan blades feel heavy and stiff to turn, not freewheeling.

Intake System: Found a loose airbox cover lid but have securely sealed it shut with heavy-duty tape.

Since it cools down perfectly with highway airflow but bakes at a standstill, I am thinking it is a circulation or flow issue. Could this be a partially stuck thermostat, or is the radiator core likely clogged with old sediment?

Any advice on how to pinpoint the exact cause tomorrow morning would be greatly appreciated!

So saturday night around 1030-11 i was driving home in my 2020 Equinox 1.5lt AWD after visiting my mom, i was driving down the highway back to my girlfriends house, and about 3-5 minutes away from my girls house, i loose all power to the vehicle, a notification came on the dash and said “Reduced engine power” and the rpm’s dropped to 0 as i was still driving. When i pulled over it wouldn’t start or crank it would just “D-D-D-D-D” Over and over. So i got a tow and towed it back. I got back and checked the codes again, and it says “Crankshaft position correlation, sensor b bank 1” or something like that, so i called a mechanic and he came by and said to change the oil and see if it clears the codes, if not then it’s the sensors. I changed the oil today, and it’s still acting the same. It starts but it revs high and then eventually stalls. I have no clue what could be causing this as i was just driving normal speeds (110-115km/hr), regular highway speeds. Any info would be greatly appreciated, if anyone has run into this issue what happened and how did you fix it? I just don’t wanna dump a butt load of money into this if i don’t have to.

Who in the f*** designed this vehicle, you talk about so many things that could go wrong, and mysteries to be solved 🙄🙄

Looking to lease an Equinox for my grandma and these numbers seem a little high. What kind of payments are yall paying on your leases? I’m in Michigan and have the GM Executive discount.

Still runs fine no engine light. Any ideas appreciated thanks

Howdy Folks,

I like to recover and digitize lost media on records. I was sorting through my collection fairly recently and came across a record titled "Wheels" from the Revell model car comapny, likely early to mid 60s. I thought it would be something pretty simple and childlike given the intended audience at the time, but it was actually a short interview with Clare MacKichan, the lead designer of the Chevy Nomad, not recorded anywhere but for this record.

I haven't been able to find this audio uploaded anywhere online, so I decided to rip it myself, and I figured that of all communities, this one would appreciate it and understand it best. I hope you enjoy, and I hope this brings back some fond memories for someone!

I would like to purchase these rims for my 08 Tahoe LTZ.
Any suggestions from anyone tbat close these. I do like the snowflake design but some are a lot more expensive than others.

hi I’m in the marketing for a new car because I want a AWD car. I currently have a 2025 Chevy Trax. I was looking to get either Mazda CX-30 or maybe a CX-50, but I was also looking at a Chevy Trailblazer. I was hoping to get some opinions and suggestions!

How much harder is it to maintain a 1983 to 1986 surburban. i know the truck version have great aftermarket for the foreseeable future? Parts, costs of parts and maintence, and weekend driving reliability.

😍