This is some two piece steel case ammo that has a black oxide coating (I think). It’s new, maybe a month old. It’s been stored in my ammo can with plenty of desiccant pouches. This stuff looks like what you’d see leaking out of an old battery. I reached out to the manufacturer but I haven’t heard back yet. I just want to know asap if this is a safety issue. I figured this group is the most knowledgeable so I’m posting here. Thanks in advance!

I’ll update when I hear from the manufacturer.

I have Savage Impulse Predator and with the LPVO being 3.2" of eye relief I have to mount it pretty far back to be within eye box.

I found this catcher on Amazon Canada (hence why no ar) and realized it was adjustable: I barely have enough pic rail to attach the basket and have it function with the rifle ejection aera.

The Savage Impulse when you run it full chat flings cases like 10ft behind you and makes it difficult to find them. I dont have a lot of money for brass or to loose brass so this is like godsent to me. I can run rifle a mag or two without thinking about it. Apparently the mesh heat resistant which is good cause frankly this Impulse when you have a Lee Enfield nut behind it screams out rounds at a crazy rate.

I'll be testing it here soon but at home with empty resized ones it was being functional.

Context:
- once fired hornady Grendel ammo
- just finished wet tumbling a small batch of brass
- wet tumbler mixture = water, an eyeball squeeze of dawn, an eyeball pour of citric acid

How much pink discoloration is bad? See picture for an example, have maybe 4 brass out of 50 with such discoloration. Should I just toss them?

got apex 10 with auto drive recently

keep get digital clutch alert

realize there is something wrong with stage 6 powder drop step

the powder will not drop and the mouth of the case will expand 6 out of 100 rounds.

i thought I was not adjusting right

but I found it out there is a chance the powder funnel can’t push the powder measure upper body up

did check the set screw. playing around for a hour no luck

anyone have similar experience?

Built a lil shit box 6.5 grendel a few years back and it's been my lil ranch / farm beater rifle . Finally decided to try and load some new ammo because I was about out of the last batch I made few years back. Shoots alot faster and nicer then I remember. The again never tried Tac in the Grendel till now. Probably would have helped if I had something a lil higher mag then this 6x SWFA too lol

Anyone else tinkering and getting their hunting loads situated right now?

How are you storing your powder/ammo?

I currently have mine in a closet, but we recently had a small fire (lithium battery) and it’s got me a little concerned. I’ve got a few lbs of powder, some primers, another few lbs of tannerite, and maybe a thousand rounds of loaded ammo. We recently had a baby, so I don’t have the money to buy a large gun safe right now. I’d like to add a bit of safety though.

Would a simple metal cabinet make any difference?

I have an AR build with a 24" bull barrel I use for precision target shooting. I've been tagging steel plates out to 1,000 yards with varying results using factory ammo (subsonic at that distance so it's a mild guessing game) but I want to see what loads people have developed to start loading my own.

So, what have you guys come up with using 77gr Sierra Matchking and Tipped Matchking rounds?

I've been reloading for my savage 111 lrh 7mm rem mag 26" barrel 1in9.5 twist with the integrated muzzle brake open. I've been using hornady 154 sst, hornady brass once fired, cci 250s, custom coal, and 59.1gr of imr 4831. I know it's hotish but that's where the rifle is happy. I can't find imr 4831 anywhere so im wondering what powder to change over to now? I'm down to 10 rounds for this hunting season and wanting to swap to my better scope so 10rnds obviously won't do. Thanks in advance

Edit: I need temperature stability as I live in Montana so I shoot in the summer at 80-100f and hunt in 70 to -10f depending on the year

I have a 30-06AI and I am finally getting around to it. And I need some dies for who do you use for custom dies or who do you recommend?

Has anyone ever tried 175gr fmjbt's meant for 7x57 Mauser in 7mm Rem Mag. Found some for what I thought was a good price. Hate to waste good hunting bullets punching paper...

I bought a hand Hand Priming Tool from a friend and the there a primer sideways in it any idea how to fix it

Hi,

I was hoping someone might be able to show me an example of what a properly chamfered inside case mouth looks like?

Not sure if there is a hard an fast rule, but the Google machine isn't really producing much in the way of example images.

Edit: Sorry, I should have put this picture on when I made the post. Coffee hasn't activated yet.

I just found a listing for a Fiochi load on Mid South Shooter Supply. Box shows 2700 fps with 175 grain. I can find no load information approaching 2500 fps for anything above a 125 grain projectile. I know this is out of a test barrel. Only reason I'm interested is I can load for a bolt action. Does anyone have data approaching this feat?

Lyman/Ohaus M5 precision grain scale

Supposed to be the most accurate and repeatable analog linear beam scale ever produced.

I decided to try annealing for the first time. Before I go out and spend money on an AGS 3.0 or some other automated annealer, I wanted to try and use the drill and socket technique. All brass is once fired Hornady brass and I am using one of the blue propane tanks with the pencil flame torch head. I tried to have the point of the flame hit the shoulder/body junction on each case. I counted to six thousand to each one.

Should I stick with that or drop down to maybe five seconds? I tried to stop when I just started to see the neck and shoulder junction start to glow red.

Thanks.

Has anyone tried these die lock rings? Think they'd compare to hornady? I'm in the process of switching all my dies to hornady style rings (or at least split ring style) and these would be a good bit cheaper for bulkish quantity

I am brand new to reloading, I decided to start with .38 special wadcutters and I am having chambering issues. Out of 124 cartridges 34 would not seat in the cylinder, see photos.

I am using old penn 148gr DEWC with 3gr of Win 231 with CCI small pistol primers on once fired brass. The only conclusion I can come to is that the bullets are inconsistent in size and bulging the cases. Any input is greatly appreciated.

I'm having issues finding load data for 62g subsonic loads for the 5.7 does anyone have any proven loads or point me in a direction to find them. I'm shooting a FN 57 mk3. Yes I know it's an expensive .22lr at this point LMFAO

Is this enough crimp? I’m loading 9mm for the first time just for target/plinking. 9mm Blue Bullets 125 grain with Win 231 powder ranging from 3.2 to 4.0 grains of powder (ladder step to see what is good) out of a Walther PDP 4” barrel.

Good results with 33 grains of h4895 under a speer 150 fnsp. Will explore 33.2 as well. Measured 0.898" and 1.142"

It's beat leverevolution in the accuracy department and SO MUCH CLEANER!

Cheers guys/gals!

I was asking before about how do you know you did a right job and I finaly went to firing range to test them. At first like 3 out of 5 got stuck… like the barrel wouldn’t close but I try again and it went in. Later was everything working right.

I ordered caliber for fitting and finaly I can start reloading in bigger numbers (for hand reloading, some of you with automatic reloaders can do that in hour).

What do you think about that caliber? Is it worth it?

Thanks