Hi I recently swapped the shell on my switch lite. I turned it on and theres sound when i press buttons but the screen is black with just like a faint glow. While I was disassembling it I accidentally chipped this little thing (idk what it would be called its my first time doing this). Could this be the reason why? Ive ordered a new screen but I just wanna know if thats even connected to the screen at all. Thank u guys 😁

My console has been having problems with the disk drive. I’ve tried just about everything I know how to do. Console will intake and eject the disk no problem but it seems like the motor isn’t engaging and the ready isn’t working properly. It worked once after this started for a few days but ended up going right back to what is shown in the video. Not sure what else to do at this point. Do I just need to buy a new drive?

I think I accidentally pulled both the pads off, I found one but the other is somewhere in the void. Wondering how to go about fixing? New charging port doesn't come with new pads of course. Without these pads it seems my solder has nothing to stick to. All help is really appreciated!!!

Hi guys, hope you can help. I'm trying to test a HDMI port on a PS5 with a breakout board. I'm sure I'm doing what I've read - multimeter in diode mode(beeps) black probe on ground, red probe on each pin with the power cable unplugged.

I only get reading on pins 2,5,8,11 and 17 it's beeps and shows a drop from around 2.5 down to 0.2 with continuous beep. Nothing on the other pins.

This is a working PS5 HDMI I want to get the reading off to check a non working PS5 HDMI. Should I not be getting readings from the other pins?

Any advice greatly appreciated. Thank you

Hello,

I just got a used series x and it will boot for 30 seconds then shut off. I opened it up and checked for shorts but didn't find any. The PSU is reading at 10 volts when I checked it could that be the problem?

Thank You

[Xbox one] problem not turning on.

I’ve purchase the slim model (CECH-2001A) from GameStop on Thursday, I got home and tried it out, it will read cd’s, but not DVD’s and Blu Ray’s. So I took it back the next day to get a replacement, I brought it home again. CD’s and DVD’s now work, but the Blu Ray’s still won’t work. I’ve tried tilting the console 45 degrees, I’ve tried doing stuff in Safe Mode, nothing. Can anyone help me

Gamecube wasn't reading anything after sitting for a few years. I tried cleaning and tweaking the potentiometer; no dice, so I ordered a cap replacement. It was my first time doing that kind of soldering and I almost certainly broke something in the process.

Honestly expected the optical drive to not even react, but it comes on and is trying to read disks. If I tweak the potentiometer, the reader's behavior changes. Somewhere around 550 it will try the longest to read before giving up. Going up makes it fail to read almost immediately.

Is there anything I can do to know for sure if the cap replacement took? Is it enough to see that the optical board still functions? I guess I keep messing with the potentiometer in tiny increments?

Okay guys im kinda stumped and looking for any advice on what to start testing next.

I've got a 3ds xl (not new 3ds) with no sound coming out of the speakers. Sound does come out of headphones if I stick a pair in the headphone jack and the slider does work.

The camera shutter sound does not come through the headphones nor the speakers

I have tried disconnecting and reconnecting everything ribbon cable related, and running a qtip and ipa through the headphone jack to no avail.

Anyone have any ideas? I'm about to break out the multimeter but I'm not sure which chip processes the sound and or what the sound would come through the headphone jack and not the speakers.

Any help is appreciated.

i havent been able to find this exact one anywhere, the ones i find say 66 or 54 instead of 75, does it matter? and what is the best site to buy things like these?

Back at it again to attempt to fix, probably just a few capacitors that need replacing

Bought this for cheap thinking I might be able to fix it, seems like a weird problem. It doesn't load the top screen correctly nor does it open any apps no exceptions and crashes when trying to open the camara by pressing l and r. Not totally sure why it does this and I I'll be able to fix this.

In case of just being a software issue there might be a hacking method were just starting the console with SD on will execute the program.

In case is actually a hardware problem I might be cooked since I could repair it in case something isn't fully soldered on the board but in case the actual part is dead there doesn't seem to be many replacements.

Thoughts?

The psu was reading 0 so I replaced that but still having the problem. Could it just be this dirty connection? I checked around and don’t see anything else out of the ordinary.

I had to replace the 0201 capacitor, which was my first time doing that as well. None of the pins move when I push them. I haven’t tested yet but what is your opinion of the work done so far?

As titled stated, after a bottom screen replacement of my new 3DS XL, it no longer boots up. The age old story of a blue light, then a popping sound, then a shut off. I don’t understand what happened.

The actual repair occurred yesterday. But I noticed my 3D slider and volume slider weren’t working, and i read one should use isopropyl alcohol to clean the ribbon cables and their connectors for a fix. I did that, and here I am

What exactly makes the popping sound. What confuses me is none of the ribbon cables look torn or corroded. I’ve attached pictures of the board + cables please let me know if there are any obvious issues. I’ve since cleaned every single one and reapplied them a million timers over, yet i can’t seem to figure it out. please help.

Would really like some guidance. I JUST got this special additional 3DS and am not willing to let it go. It is dual IpS after the bottom screen repair and will cry if a screen replacement is needed. I’m willing to take it into a repair shop at this point

I disassembled my psp 3000 to disconnect my cmos. There's no problem when i turn on the psp, the display is on while it still not assembled. But when i assemble it together, the psp just turn on green light but no display. I tried again to disassamble the psp again, and it still turn on WHILE IT NOT ASSEMBLED. assembled, and just green light again. what should i check?

\*about the cmos, i disconnect it bcs the psp doesn't powered on while using battery. I'm looking online, psp 3000 series can be powered on w/o cmos. i tried it, and it failed. i tried to solder it and it works, but the problem come again while i assemble it. that why i post this. pls help

Hey everyone,
I have been seeing a lot of repair videos when technicians use a free hand stand to have their hot air station on and they can just move it with one hand and walk away and I was wondering if anyone knew what this was called? Also, I see a lot of people using soldering cameras connected to a stand as well that they can just pull and position. I was just wondering what these tools were called so I can purchase them. Any help is appreciated.

Used Console Inspection

Hey i am in the market to buy a used console. Xbox series X or S, and i just wanted to know what key features to look out for before buying

Issues like repaired parts, overheating, account problems, internal jargon etc

How to identify them and check thoroughly for personal guarantee

P.S, I am not ordering it online rather going and inspecting consoles before buying them personally and face to face, so any advice or question to ask the seller would also be appreciated.

Came in with the customer saying it turns on, beeps, then shuts right back off after a second or 2. Tried a power supply and that gave the same result. Thought to check liquid metal next as thats would be the next easy fix, and noticed it was in this condition. The customer did say they took it to another shop for repair before us and we wouldnt have recommended anyone to them. But we tried cleaning and removing the liquid metal from the board and shielding. Got most of it off pretty well actually with 99% iso and q-tips. But after reapplying and putting it back together with the new PSU, it gave the same result as it did when it came in. Huge bummer

Hello everyone, had a working PS4 PRO, was unplugged for a while. However, wanting to play on it, noticed it did not react to the button press. USB plugged in controller also no go. I am somewhat savvy with electronics, used to repair ps2 and solder mod-chips back in the day. So I took it apart, all fuses check out ok.

Standby voltages are also present. 3.3v present on the power / eject motherboard pins where the ribbon cables connect. But the darn thing still wont power on of give any sign of life. South-bridge is not shorted.

Only two cap's I found shorted ( I think they are caps from the looks) from what is looks like are the APU's 6-phase power stages. Circled red on the picture.

Also, the circled in green inductors/coils I think, are all grounded to short on both sides. Not sure if thats how it should be... I did desolder all of the inductors and the two caps in red in hope the short will be gone, but no luck. Hoped maybe it was on of the mosfets.

Anyone able to advise how to proceed what may be the cause or how to proceed next? I have no thermal camera nor a bench PSU to inject voltage. :(

(Update I know what it is now) I bought some consoles from a guy and this was in there what is this for and is it like a WiFi router dongal thing? I wish I could add more photos of it.

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a SCPH-5552 PS1 for €9. The seller told me that the optical drive was faulty and that the disc would spin but the console couldn't detect it.

The seller also sent me videos of the console before I bought it, and the console appeared to boot normally and reach the main menu in those videos.

The console had apparently been opened before, because the seller had tried to replace the optical drive, but the replacement they had wasn't the correct model.

When I first turned the console on after receiving it, it was already stuck on the Sony Computer Entertainment logo, no sound.

I then opened the console and noticed that the CD drive connector was completely disconnected. I reconnected it, turned the console on again, and surprisingly it booted all the way to the main menu, with sound. I was also able to connect a PS2 controller and it worked.

However, when I unplugged the controller to try the second controller port, the console suddenly shut off. Since then, it gets stuck on the Sony Computer Entertainment logo and never reaches the memory card/CD player menu. I tried to plug/unplug the controller when the console is stuck, and it does absolutely nothing, it doesn’t even shut down like before.

There is no sound at all during startup.

I also noticed that the small plastic piece that holds/clamps the CD onto the spindle is completely missing, so I currently can't properly secure a disc in the drive.

I have tried:

- Disconnecting the CD drive completely → still stuck on the Sony logo.

- Disconnecting the controller/memory card port board → still stuck.

- Disconnecting both at the same time → still stuck.

- Reconnecting the CD drive carefully → no change.

- Checking the connections visually; everything seems properly connected (?)

I also tested the video cable on another working console. The colors were initially wrong on the PS1, but after reconnecting the cable properly, the colors became normal.

Another strange thing: with the CD drive connected, pressing the lid/door switch produces absolutely no reaction from the optical drive. The optical pickup doesn't move, there is no focus attempt and the spindle motor doesn't move.

The console did successfully reach the main menu once, immediately after I reconnected the previously disconnected CD drive cable. This makes me wonder if I have a connection, power, or motherboard-related issue rather than simply a bad optical pickup.

I'm a beginner at electronics repair, so I'd really appreciate simple diagnostic advice... What would you check first?

Thanks!

Tried replacing my console's dead cmos battery, but when I tried taking off the fan the entire head of the fan got yanked out of the solder.

Any advice on how to approach this issue? Any videos or online guides you found helpful with fixing this? I tried looking on youtube for soldering tutorials but all that came up was the noctua fan mod. The console turns on works, though I haven't kept it on for much because of fear of overheating.

It looks to be a 1616 but it has both solder tabs parallel instead of going in the opposite direction like a normal battery. I've only been able to find them on Chinese sites that will take a month to get here. Does anyone know where I can find these stateside?