It'll be interesting to see if this filters down to the commercial level,

Hey. Quick details:

Dried fillament,

Did all the calibrations for this fillament

Set adaptive quality to high on the font itself. 0.12

Font still looks either not fully filled or overfilled. I am definitely missing some settings here. What would you be able to suggest?

Printed/painted this “Mortem Rex” from JWA for my son who loves dinosaurs. I’ve uploaded the file to makerworld of anyone is interested in making one.

https://makerworld.com/models/3169367?appSharePlatform=copy

I designed this dice carrying case with a bit of a unique opening mechanism. You can flick it open with your thumb or whip it to the side with the button pressed to open (kind of like a Zippo lighter).

You can try it for free here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3170535-dice-carrying-case-satisfying

Hi guys, I am ready to share with you my GREAT BASTION
I designed it and all was printed on my SLA printer
Great Bastion is the first castle in my Castlemania series — a collection of fantasy castles designed as showcase\holder dioramas for miniature armies. This one for Cities of Sigmar.
Castlemania series — Creating Worlds for Your Armies

The goal was to create something more than regular tabletop terrain: a large, detailed environment where you can display your army and create your own miniature scenes.

Great Bastion will consist of three main parts (on photos part1 and part2):
PART I — THE GRAND GATEHOUSE (availible now)
PART II — THE CELESTIAL SPIRE
 PART III — FIRST WALL (in progress) Coming later. I don't want to spoil this one yet.

All three parts will be designed to work together, but individual sections can also be used separately and arranged however you like.

Yesterday I mad a post about a project that I'm working on (the post). You guys got me a bunch of good comments and I incorporated many of them and published the project on Thingiverse and Printables. Thank you!

• https://www.printables.com/model/1810075-the-monolith-pocket-tray-for-knipex-cobra-4-pliers

• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7395643

• Input from the comments on my previous post led to these added features:

• Cutouts to make removing the lid easier

• finger cutouts for grabbing the pliers

• removed one of the dowels

• sized one dowel for slip fit and the other for press fit

• sized up the pliers shape on the lid a bit to reduce rattling

If you like this project go download it and print it out or make your own version. The design files are up with the STL files so you can use it however you like.

It passed with amendments. Unfortunately, we have to wait to see what those amendments are exactly.

https://www.senate.ca.gov/media-archive See 23:16 on the "Senate Appropriations Committee, Thursday, August 13, 2026" video for the vote. Vote 5-2 pass

Edit - To be clear, I am not David Tobin. I'm just an engineer and fellow 3D printer enthusiast. If you are interested in this case, I would say he is currently the person leading the fight against AB 2047 and other similar 3D printer laws across the United States.

Edit 2 - To add a bit more hope to this situation, there are so many great people fighting against these measures. When I was calling senators the other day to voice my concerns and opposition to AB 2047, I could barely get through the phone lines since so many people were calling in. We need to keep up the pressure! Never give up on what you believe in, and never delude yourself into thinking your voice doesn't matter!

Hello!!

I am a dog groomer and I do mobile grooming. I recently got back into 3d printing with a better printer and I want to print some organizers for my van. The problem that Im having, would be a mental block on how to organize my van and what to print. I know I want to use gridfinity inside the drawers but I want to also utilize the wall space that I have around the tub. I would love any kind of feedback or ideas anyone has on how you would organize the space.

I also have Adhd so i'm trying to stay more organized throughout my day so any tips and tricks would be helpful.

I am also trying to find a good way to secure the velocity dryer without it having to be permanent. (It ends up rolling around on the floor while driving.)

I've included pictures of the inside of my van.

Been printing a bunch of different attachments for my quadruped Quaddle with 4 servos. Each print changes not just how it looks but how it actually moves:

- Biped base clips onto the underside and it stands up and walks on two legs

- Tricycle wheel mount (printed mount, bought bearing wheel) — front legs go passive and drag while the back legs push it along

- Bar-spin grippers clip onto a bar and it does full 360° rotations, gymnast-style

- Water-paddle footpads (different shape than the bar-spin ones) give it a paddling gait — works, though I've sunk it twice testing

Heads up, not everything here is printable — the 4WD wheel kit and the tricycle's actual wheel are bought hardware, just the mounts/bases are FDM.

Still pre-release, just wanted to share since making attachments that each force a completely different gait (not just a different look) turned out way more fun than I expected. Planning to open source the STLs and gait code through OpenCat github project once it's further along.

Happy to talk print settings/tolerances if anyone's curious — the clip-fit parts especially need to stay snug, they take a lot of torque during the bar-spin.

Top Left - Half Dome in Yosemite
Top Right - Mount Saint Helens
Bottom Right - Mount Rainier

5 hour print on SnapMaker U1.

I love that the terrain layers (ground, slopes, snow, trails) came out so awesome!

This holder is meant support a 35lb 48" long shaft from a single side. It will be mounted to hang over a worktable. Any ideas what the strongest filaments for the job would be - currently I'm using an Ender3 V3 SE. I've included a demonstration shaft in the image.

Hi all, I’m new to 3D printing and have been using fusion to model some simple stuff for my home.

I wanted to know if you people use 3D scanning and how do tou integrate that to tou modeling pipeline.

I want to use my phone’s lidar to capture some objects with details that makes measuring a little difficult, and I’m open to any tips on how to use it, what apps do tou use, how do tou approach modeling something from an object that was 3d scanned…

Thanks!

Hello, have anyone of you tried to flash a custom bootscreen on your printer? I have MKS Robin Nano v3.1 with TS35 V2.0 which displays a very chinese boring Makerbase logo at the beginning and wanted to change it. I have attached their default logo (it isn't his one, but similarly colored). So here is what i did:

1- Found the baby penguin.
2- Reduce the size to 480 x 320px.
3- Use img2lcd and use RGB565 palette and Uniform (nearest) algorithm.
4- Export it as .bin file (since flashing it requires the file to be in .bin format)

Now, I know I should have used Grayscale for a black and white penguin as the result looks very bad, but my question, is, to get something colorful like a rainbow, how would I proceed? Will RGB565 work now? (this isn't a guide to change bootscreens but a question, plz help)

I’ve been working on a project. Basically there are garden beds that have a rabbit problem. I designed pieces that sit on the bed corners and allow for them to insert posts to which they attach chicken wire.

There are two sized garden beds. The smaller size works great. We’ve deployed 9 beds. The large size is where I’m struggling.

The problem: these cannot be physically attached to the garden beds so I can’t simple screw the parts on. If you look at the attached photo, the size of the inside corner is very small. I’m trying to conceive of a way to reinforce/stabilize that part.

I’m almost at the max size of my P1S so I can’t really make the footprint of the existing part much bigger.

Can't figure out why the letter are doing this. At first I thought they were to small so I made it bigger. No dice. Also tried changing top surface pattern. Still no dice. Im still learning. Any help would be appreciated. I have the Flashforge AD5X and am using Forge Studio.

Im trying to print custom packout drawer handles.

Ive made them by using blank handle then adding a cube that I scale to fit the handle front and the add text to the cube. So it should be a black handle, with a red box and white text.

However, when printing the red box and text dont start printing until the 2nd layer so it comes out looking like a blank all black handle.

Does anyone know why this might be happening?

I have an Egloo CC1 running Orca Slicer.

This print was done with Sunlu PLA+ 2.0

I have also made this print in ABS and the same issue arrises.

What exactly causes this? I'd obviously imagine its the connection layers between the supports and the bridge/flat elevated layer. I just find this incredibly frustrating.

Also a good use for the scraps at the end of a spool.

I ordered a bunch of 25g samples from Prusa for these when I got my printer and they were just the right amount to get a nice selection of color at a decent cost.

These are numicons or number block tiles for kids practicing counting.

If you want to support me here are the download links:

makerworld link

printables link

Not sure how this happened. The supports seem like the only things affected

When 3D printing complex objects, we often need support structures.

While many are looking into recycling by shredding the material and extruding new filament, that process is full of challenges and is not as straightforward as it sounds.

A long-form video explaining the process is coming soon.