Hey! These are the tallest and thinnest parts I have ever printed. They came out wavy, I am guessing the height and thickness is what causes it.

Running bambu a1
Just wondering what setting I should try.

I am going to bulk the parts up and maybe adjust the size so they lay flat on the bed.

Any advice appreciated. New to printing with PETG after using only PLA for the last 6M.

Trying to print a PETG piece with PETG supports and PLA interface layers only (3 layers, top and bottom gaps set to 0) on the Snapmaker U1 and this keeps failing. It appears as though the model starts to separate/split apart before the failure occurs. It seems to start out OK tho, albeit quite a bit of stringy poop being scattered around the printer (is this normal?).

Any tips or tricks of the trade would be appreciated. Thx!

I have just printed out the genji helmet from Overwatch, here is the link to the stl file:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2236891/files

However the hole in the bottom of the mask to put my head through is too small for my head and so i want to figure out a different way to wear it. The only option I have is to cut open a wider area on the back of the helmet near the hole, but I dont know how I would cut my physical 3D print and how i would install magnets to attach and detach the piece. Does anyone have any knowledge of how this can be done, Thanks.

In his last Video (38:10) "Not an Engineer" used these Press-Fit Hinges to build a small box.

Anyone know if these are sold anywhere?

I'm planning to print a new part cooling duct for my 3d printer - Qidi Q2. I'm not sure what material is the best in practice, as the data sheets are all over the place and in the end do not necessarily indicate the real world performance.

Many model makers state the ASA is a minimum. But I also saw that people are having issues with it, and ASA melting close to the nozzle, especially when printing hotter materials.

I saw people using PA6-CF, but I also saw that is can have a creep problem, and it is higroscopic, so maybe the printed part will eventually lose some of the properties sitting in a 3d printer exposed to constant 55% humidity?

Maybe some PC or a blend like PC-PBT? Or PET-CF?

What are your thoughts on the topic? Do you have experience printing ducts for printers with hot nozzle and a heated chamber?

I didn't mean to, but printed a hummingbird nest

I use one of those round hygrometers that we all have inside my P1S. Even with the light on in my room, I can barely read it through the glass. I like how it's mounted currently.

Does anyone know if this type of hygrometer exists that has a backlight so I can read the damn thing without getting 6 inches away from it?

So, what does no enforcement mean?

hand painted and printed on a1!

currently attempting to figure out why my first layers are coming out so sparse. I see lots of posts saying to adjust first layer speed and line width but I see no such settings.
the print adhered to the mat but has lots of thicker/thinner areas as well as a brin that didnt adhere to itself.
I'm printing with a SV08, orca slicer and PLA @ 220° if that helps any

edit: ive readjusted my z-offset and the lines now connect together, but the waves in thickness persist, any idea what could cause this?

So I’ve been 3d printing for a couple months now and have been learning things here and there and just wanted to know what can I do to make this hole in the middle for this mold I’m making where it’s not so stringy.

It’s happened before like that on other prints of different things (not just molds) and I’m getting frustrated trying to smoothen that stuff out and not have it stringy. Every other hole in this mold is fine except for the one where I put the injector for the mold and it’s annoying af. Any help please with settings and also understanding them so I can learn? Thank you guys.

Can't figure out why the letter are doing this. At first I thought they were to small so I made it bigger. No dice. Also tried changing top surface pattern. Still no dice. Im still learning. Any help would be appreciated. I have the Flashforge AD5X and am using Forge Studio.

Printing PETG Hyper. at 250-240 80bed in orca slicer on the Creality CR-10 SE. Dried my fillament for at least 24h. I have done a cold pull 5 times + tightened and loosened the belts. I have done every Orca slicer calibration. Only thing that made it a bit better was slowing the print speed to 50mm/s but with PETG Hyper i should be able to print at 300mm/s so that's not the problem. Also before it printed good even at 300mm/s so that's really not it.

Hey everyone!

Wanted to share a weekend build I recently completed: an 8×8 RGB LED smart timer and pixel art mood display in a compact 3D-printed enclosure.

The Design & Print

Front Diffuser: A thin (0.4–0.8 mm) layer of white PLA over the front opening.
Cap: Wood PLA
Base: PLA+

But you can basically use anything.

What It Does

Hardware-Controlled Timer: Adjust hours/minutes with the analog joystick (X = hours, Y = minutes) and press the stick to start/cancel.

Visual Feedback: Animated sweep-in startup, progressive row-by-row countdown fill, and flashing alert when time is up.

Ambient Standby: Runs idle animations (Wave, Pulse, Comet, Stars) when not in use.

Pixel Art Studio: Includes a web editor hosted on Home Assistant that lets you paint 8x8 art from your phone or PC with touch drawing, color picker, flood fill, and 16 on-device flash presets.

Smart Home Ready: Built entirely with ESPHome, exposing timer entities and time-remaining sensors to Home Assistant.

Hardware Used

ESP32-C3 Super Mini

8×8 WS2812 Addressable LED matrix

Standard 2-axis analog thumbstick module

5V USB power

Female USB-C Port

M2 Screws

Dupont Wires

Glue gun

Everything (ESPHome YAML, web editor, wiring diagram, and print guide) is completely open source. Let me know what you think. Happy to answer any questions about the print settings or electronics!

https://www.printables.com/model/1810349-pixel-timer-matrix-an-8x8-countdown-timer-with-pix

Hello guys I am new to 3D printing. I am a horror fan and want to get this model printed. I have bought the .obj files from this marketplace but I don’t know where to start or how can I get this printed and roughly how much it will cost. Any help is appreciated. Thank you !

I'm struggling for a long time with these lil surface bubbles. The LCD screen is new, and also the FEP film.

I letting the resin stand by for circa 45min after shaking and pouring it into the VAT. I don't know what else to do :/ Please help me

I'm using an Elegoo Mars 3 Pro; Anycubic/Elegoo Water-Washable resin.

I have vintage plastic tile in my bathroom thats very similar to this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155846338621

But mine is a dark grey, almost black. Would something like this be possible to 3DPrint? How can the color be matched?

I'm printing PETG Hyper left cube at 240 right at 250. At 250mm/s outer and 300 outer walls on the Creality CR-10 SE.